Intermediate
What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.
Sweaters 17 Laid out for paper No account, no download
Gradient Mesh Pullover Sweater Crochet Pattern
Open-mesh gradient sweater, 4 panels, G-6 hook, 56 rows body, E-4 ribbing, eyelash trim.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Time
- 20-25 hours
- Yarn weight
- DK
- Rounds
- 17
DK
What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.
17
Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.
This oversized pullover builds from four flat mesh panels: a front body, a back body, and two sleeves, each worked in a repeating chain-space grid that reads as an open, airy fabric once blocked. A gradient DK yarn carries the color shift from cream through lavender to dusty purple across the body, while a separate deep purple yarn forms the hem and cuff ribbing and a contrast eyelash yarn finishes the neckline and cuffs. Before starting, have the G-6 hook for the mesh and eyelash trim, the E-4 hook for ribbing, stitch markers for the neckline division, and blocking mats ready, since the mesh will not show its true width or drape until wet blocked.
Common mistakes and their fixes
- Miscounting the foundation ch-1 spaces
- Remember the skipped chains count as a ch-1 space plus the first sc, not as a separate stitch; recount your mesh units after the first row before continuing.
- Working ribbing into both loops
- The cuff and hem ribbing calls for BLO sc only; check the first row against the pattern and rip back if the front loop remains uncrocheted.
- Skipping the wet block before seaming
- Open mesh fabric measures narrower and stiffer off the hook; block each panel to its stated dimensions first so the shoulder and side seams line up correctly.
The materials list
- Yarn A (main gradient yarn): Approximately 700 to 800 yards of DK weight (3) yarn in a gradient colorway transitioning from cream through soft lavender to medium dusty purple. If using solid colors, you will need approximately 200 yards of cream, 200 yards of soft lavender, and 350 yards of dusty purple.
- Yarn B (trim yarn): Approximately 80 to 100 yards of white eyelash or faux-fur yarn. Look for yarn with 1 to 2 inch fibers for maximum fluffiness.
- Yarn C (ribbing and bow): Approximately 50 to 60 yards of DK weight yarn in the deepest purple shade.
Notions
- Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors, blocking mats and pins, seaming pins.
Yarn Suggestions
- Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in a hand-dyed gradient set pairs wonderfully with Lion Brand Fun Fur in White. Malabrigo Rios DK in colorway Purpuras also creates gorgeous results with Bernat Pipsqueak in Snow White for trim.
Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.
Key to this pattern, 12 short forms
Hem Ribbing (make 2)
Using Yarn C (deep purple) and E-4 hook, ch 7.
Round 1
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (6 sc) Ch 1, turn.to 28: Sc in BLO of each st across. (6 sc) Ch 1, turn. The cuff ribbing strip should measure approximately 7 inches (18 cm) long. Fasten off, leaving an 18-inch tail.
Round 2
to 48: Sc in BLO of each st across. (6 sc) Ch 1, turn. The ribbing strip should measure approximately 12 inches (30 cm) long to match your body panel hem width. Fasten off, leaving an 18-inch tail for seaming.
Main Pattern
Round 2
(WS): Ch 2, turn. Sc into first ch-sp, (ch 1, sc into next ch-sp) across, ending with sc into the tch-sp. (46 mesh units) Ch 2, turn.
Round 3
to 56: Rep Row 2, maintaining pattern. (46 mesh units each row) Follow the gradient color placement notes above. Continue until the piece measures approximately 22 inches (56 cm) from the foundation chain, or 56 rows total are complete.Fasten off and weave in ends.
Checkpoint: The Back Body should measure approximately 23 inches (58 cm) wide and 22 inches (56 cm) tall before blocking.
Main Pattern
Round 5
Increase Row: (16 mesh units)Rows 6 to 8: Work even. (16 mesh units)
Round 9
Increase Row: (18 mesh units)Rows 10 to 12: Work even. (18 mesh units)
Round 13
Increase Row: (20 mesh units)Rows 14 to 16: Work even. (20 mesh units)
Round 17
Increase Row: (22 mesh units)Rows 18 to 20: Work even. (22 mesh units)
Round 21
Increase Row: (24 mesh units)Rows 22 to 24: Work even. (24 mesh units)
Round 25
Increase Row: (26 mesh units)Rows 26 to 28: Work even. (26 mesh units)
Round 29
Increase Row: (28 mesh units)Rows 30 to 32: Work even. (28 mesh units)
Round 33
Increase Row: (30 mesh units)Rows 34 to 36: Work even. (30 mesh units)
Round 37
Increase Row: (32 mesh units)Rows 38 to 40: Work even. (32 mesh units)
Round 41
Increase Row: (34 mesh units)Rows 42 to 44: Work even. (34 mesh units)
Round 45
Increase Row (36 mesh units) Continue even until sleeve measures 18 inches (46 cm) total from foundation row or 50 rows total. The last several rows should be in cream/white following the gradient schedule.Fasten off.Checkpoint: The completed sleeve should measure approximately 9 inches (23 cm) wide at the cuff end and approximately 18 inches (46 cm) wide at the top, and 18 inches (46 cm) long from foundation to final row.Right Sleeve: Work identically to Left Sleeve.
Neckline Shaping for Left Shoulder
Round 47
(RS): Ch 2, turn. Sc into first ch-sp, (ch 1, sc into next ch-sp) 14 times, ch 1, sc into next ch-sp. (15 mesh units) Ch 2, turn. Leave remaining stitches unworked.Rows 48 to 52: Work in pattern over 15 mesh units only. (15 mesh units each row) Ch 2, turn.Rows 53 to 56: Work in pattern over 15 mesh units, switching to cream/white yarn per gradient schedule. (15 mesh units) Fasten off.
Neckline Shaping for Right Shoulder
Skip the center 16 mesh units. This creates the open boat neck. With RS facing, join yarn in the 33rd mesh unit from the right edge.
Round 47
(RS): Ch 2, sc in same ch-sp where you joined, (ch 1, sc in next ch-sp) 14 times. (15 mesh units) Ch 2, turn.Rows 48 to 56: Work in pattern over 15 mesh units. (15 mesh units each row) Fasten off.
Ribbing (worked in BLO sc)
Step by step: Using Yarn C and E-4 hook, ch 7.
All ribbing is worked in rows in BLO sc. Working only in the back loop creates horizontal ridges and stretchy, elastic texture.
Row setup: Ch the required number, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn.
Subsequent rows: Sc in BLO of each st across. Ch 1, turn.
Assembly, in order
Step 1Block all four pieces before seaming by wet blocking. This step is critical for open mesh fabric.
Step 2Step 1 Shoulder Seams: Align shoulder edges of Front and Back panels. Seam the left shoulder section (15 mesh units of Front to the leftmost 15 mesh units of Back) and the right shoulder section using mattress stitch. The center 16 mesh units of Back remain free for the back neckline.
Step 3Step 2 Sleeve Attachment: Measure down 9 inches (23 cm) from each shoulder seam along the side edges. Mark these points. Pin the sleeve top edge to the armhole opening, matching centers, and seam using mattress stitch.
Step 4Step 3 Side and Sleeve Seams: Seam the right side from hem to underarm, then continue seaming the right sleeve from underarm to cuff. Repeat for left side and sleeve.
Step 5Step 4 Attach Cuff Ribbing: Seam short ends of each cuff ribbing strip together to form a ring, then seam the long edge of the ring to each sleeve cuff using whipstitch.
Step 6Step 5 Attach Hem Ribbing: Attach the hem ribbing strip along the bottom edge of the Front panel and then along the bottom edge of the Back panel.
Check these before you start
- Keep tension consistent across gradient color changes in the body rows, since any tightening will show as a visible band once the piece is wet blocked.
- The ribbing strips are worked in BLO sc throughout; skipping the back loop only will lose the horizontal ridge that gives the ribbing its stretch.
On one line
| Rounds | 17 |
|---|---|
| Parts | 6 |
| Level | Intermediate |
| Time | 20-25 hours |
| Yarn | DK |
Set-up
- Confirm total yardage before winding: about 700-800 yards of gradient Yarn A, 80-100 yards of eyelash Yarn B, and 50-60 yards of deep purple Yarn C for ribbing and bow.
- Work a small mesh swatch with the G-6 hook to check that your chain-1 spaces sit open and even before committing to the 46-mesh-unit body rows.
- Read the foundation row setup once fully through, since the first sc lands in the 4th chain and the skipped chains count as a ch-1 space plus that sc.
- Place a marker at the center 16 mesh units of the Back panel ahead of time, since these stay free for the back neckline during shoulder seaming.
Finishing
- Wet block all four mesh panels flat before any seaming, since the open chain-space grid will not reach its intended width or drape until blocked.
- Seam the shoulders with mattress stitch, matching 15 mesh units of Front to the leftmost 15 of Back on each side and leaving the center 16 units of Back open for the neckline.
- Join Yarn B at the neckline and cuff edges to work the eyelash trim rounds, then weave in all tails, including the long tails left on the ribbing strips for seaming.
Construction
The Back Body's main mesh section holds a flat 46 mesh units across all 54 remaining rows, with no shaping until the shoulder line, which keeps the gradient stripes running straight and unbroken.
The foundation row's ch-1 spaces plus first sc set the mesh unit count for every following row, so each working row simply repeats into the previous row's ch-sps and closes into the turning-chain space.
Time per section
| Hem and cuff ribbing (make 2 each) | about 2-3 hours, because each strip runs up to 48 short BLO rows worked on a smaller E-4 hook |
|---|---|
| Back and Front mesh panels | about 8-10 hours, because each panel holds 56 rows of 46 mesh units to reach the full 22-inch length |
| Sleeve shaping and trims | about 4-5 hours, because the increase rows come every four rows and the neckline and cuff eyelash trims are worked separately |
Common questions
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.