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Granny square yoke sweater with ribbed collar

Top-down granny square sweater: 4-round collar, V-stitch yoke, granny body. 5 mm hook, worsted yarn.

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Granny square yoke sweater with ribbed collar
Sweaters · Worsted
Skill
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Yarn weight
Worsted
Hook
5 mm
Rounds
13

Intermediate

What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Worsted

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

13

Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.

This sweater starts at the neck and grows outward: a short-row ribbed collar seamed into a circle, a V-stitch yoke worked in the round with four corner increases, and a granny-stitch body split at two underarm chains for the sleeves. Before picking up the hook, have worsted weight yarn and a 5 mm hook on hand, along with stitch markers for the yoke corners and a yarn needle for seaming the collar and weaving ends. Because collar rows and yoke rounds are sized by trying the piece on, expect to stop and check fit more than once. It's a great pattern for customizing color, adding stripes, or keeping it classic in one solid shade.

Common mistakes and their fixes

Losing the corner V-stitch center
Place a stitch marker directly in each ch-1 space at the center of a corner V-stitch as soon as it is made, then move the marker up each round so later corners build on the exact same spot.
Uneven ribbing row count before seaming
Try the ribbing around your neck before joining the short ends; add or remove a row rather than stretching or compressing the seam to fit.
Skipping stitches at the underarm bridge
Re-count the sleeve-section stitches before chaining 3 and sl st to the opposite corner, since skipping too many or too few stitches shifts where the sleeve will later attach.

The materials list

  1. Worsted weight yarn size 4
  2. 5 mm crochet hook
  3. Stitch markers
  4. Scissors and yarn needle

Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.

Key to this pattern, 7 short forms

Ribbed Collar

Neck ribbing rows depend on your fit; example sizing used about 100 ribbing rows for a 2X.

Round 1

Chain 8; sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. (7 sc)

Round 2

Ch 1 and turn; sc in both loops in the first stitch; sc in back loop only across the middle stitches; sc in both loops in the last stitch; repeat this row until the ribbing wraps comfortably around your neck.

Round 3

Fold ribbing with short ends together; join the short ends using sl st or sc through both edges, keeping the seam straight and maintaining 7 stitches across; turn right side out.

Round 4

Ch 1; sc evenly around the top edge of the collar, working 1 sc per ribbing row so the edge lays flat and even; sl st to the first ch 1 to join.

Yoke

Yoke rounds depend on your fit; example sizing used about 14 yoke rounds for a 2X.

Round 1

Setup Round Ch 3 (counts as dc); dc in the same stitch to form a V stitch (Corner 1); ch 1, skip 1 stitch, dc in next 3 stitches, repeat ch 1 skip 1 dc in next 3 stitches across the shoulder section (Shoulder Panel 1); ch 1, work V stitch (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next stitch (Corner 2); ch 1, skip 1 stitch, dc in next 3 stitches, repeat across the front section (Front Panel); ch 1, work V stitch in the next stitch (Corner 3); ch 1, skip 1 stitch, dc in next 3 stitches, repeat across the shoulder section (Shoulder Panel 2); ch 1, work V stitch in the next stitch (Corner 4); ch 1, skip 1 stitch, dc in next 3 stitches, repeat across the back section, ending with ch 1 skip 1 dc in next 2 stitches because the starting ch 3 counts as the third dc (Back Panel And Join); sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join.

Round 2

and up (repeat): Ch 3 and turn; dc in the same corner space to form the corner V stitch; work 3 dc in the first ch 1 space next to the corner, ch 1, work 3 dc in the next ch 1 space, repeat ch 1 and 3 dc in each ch 1 space until you reach the next corner; at each corner work ch 1, V stitch (dc, ch 1, dc) into the center of the previous round's corner V stitch; continue around all four sides; sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join; repeat this round until the yoke fits across chest and back and corners meet comfortably under the armpits.

Body

Round 1

Separation Round Ch 3 and turn; work 3 dc in the same space; continue granny stitch across until you reach the first corner V stitch; work 1 dc into the center of the corner V stitch; ch 3 to form the underarm chain; skip all stitches across the sleeve section; sl st to the opposite corner V stitch; continue by working 3 dc into the first ch 1 space of the body section; work granny stitch across the back; repeat the underarm bridge to connect the other two corners for the second armhole; join the round with sl st.

Round 2

and on (Body Rounds): Ch 3 and turn each round; work granny stitch around the body only; work 3 dc into each underarm ch 3 space on every round; do not make corner V stitches anymore.

Sleeves

Optional fitted cuff decrease (dc2tog over two spaces): yarn over, insert hook into first ch 1 space, pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, insert hook into next ch 1 space, pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Decrease placement: on the third-from-last sleeve round, decrease on every 5th cluster space; on the second-from-last sleeve round, decrease on every 6th cluster space; on the last sleeve round, decrease on the 7th cluster space only.

Round 1

Join yarn at the underarm ch 3 space; ch 3; work 3 dc in the next space; continue granny stitch around the armhole; sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.

Round 2

and on (repeat): Ch 3 and turn each round; work granny stitch around; repeat until sleeve reaches your desired length.

Cuffs And Bottom Band

Wrist band: work ribbing rows until it fits your wrist comfortably.

Bottom band: work ribbing rows until it fits around your hip or hem circumference.

Rounds 1–3

Work sc evenly around each cuff edge and around the bottom edge.

Round 4

Chain 8; sc in 2nd chain from hook and across. (7 sc)

Round 5

Ch 1 and turn; sc in both loops in first stitch; sc in back loop only across middle stitches; sc in both loops in last stitch; repeat rows until the strip fits the opening.

Assembly, in order

Step 1With sweater wrong side facing you, align the long edge of the ribbing with the sweater edge; sc through the ribbing edge and a stitch on the sweater to join all the way around.
Step 2Seam the short ends of the ribbing together to close the circle.
Step 3Weave in all ends and lightly block if needed.

Check these before you start

  • Keep the 5 mm hook consistent through the collar and yoke; a tighter hook on the ribbing rows will make the neck opening hard to stretch over the head later.
  • Mark each corner V-stitch as you complete Yoke Round 1, since every later yoke round depends on finding that exact ch-1 center again.
  • Watch tension at the underarm ch-3 bridges in the Body Separation Round; a loose chain there leaves a gap, a tight one puckers the armhole.
  • Adjust sizing by trying on as you go.
  • Neck ribbing rows and yoke rounds depend on your fit.
  • Example sizing is 2X with about 100 ribbing rows and 14 yoke rounds.

On one line

Rounds13
Parts5
LevelIntermediate
Time4-6 hours
Hook5 mm
YarnWorsted

Set-up

  • Confirm total yarn amount against your intended size before starting the collar, since the body and two sleeves draw heavily from the same skeins.
  • Set a stitch marker at each of the four yoke corners in Round 1 so later rounds find the V-stitch centers without recounting stitches.
  • Work a small ribbing swatch first to check that your ch 1 turn and back-loop rows produce a stretch that will seam neatly into a circle.
  • Read through the Yoke Round 1 setup fully before starting it, since all four corners and panels are placed in a single round with no chance to adjust after joining.

Finishing

  1. Seam the short ends of the ribbed collar together first, keeping the seam straight so the 7-stitch ribbing stays even all the way around.
  2. the sweater wrong side facing you, align the ribbing's long edge to the neck opening and sc through both layers to join them evenly.
  3. Weave in every end left from the collar, yoke, body, and both sleeves, then block lightly if the granny squares need to sit flatter.

Construction

All shaping above the underarms happens at the four corner V-stitches placed in Yoke Round 1; every later yoke round simply rebuilds a V-stitch over the previous round's corner center, which is why the corners stay aligned as the piece grows.

The Body Separation Round turns the yoke's four corners into two underarm bridges by chaining 3 and skipping the sleeve stitches entirely, so the sleeves are worked later as separate pieces while the body and back close into one continuous round.

Time per section

Ribbed collarabout 45-60 minutes because fit-based row counts mean working, trying on, and adjusting before seaming
V-stitch yokeabout 1.5-2 hours because the setup round places four corners and panels in one pass, and every later round repeats across all four sides
Body and sleevesabout 2-3 hours because the body works in continuous granny rounds while two identical sleeves are worked separately

Photographs of this one

Every one was taken by whoever published the pattern, in the order the source listed them.

Granny square yoke sweater with ribbed collar — photo 2
Granny square yoke sweater with ribbed collar — photo 3
Granny square yoke sweater with ribbed collar — photo 4
Granny square yoke sweater with ribbed collar — photo 5

Common questions

How do you know when the yoke is long enough?
Try the yoke on after each full round and stop once the corners sit comfortably under the armpits and the fabric spans the chest and back without pulling. There is no fixed round count; fit decides when to move to the Body Separation Round.
Why does the collar get seamed before it is attached to the neck?
The ribbing is worked flat as a long strip with back-loop rows for stretch, then its short ends are joined into a circle first. Only after that circle is closed does it get sc-joined around the sweater's neck opening.
What happens to the stitches under the arm?
In the Body Separation Round, the sleeve-section stitches are skipped entirely and replaced with a ch-3 bridge joined by sl st to the opposite corner. That chain becomes the space where 3 dc are worked on every later body round to keep the underarm closed.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.