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Square yoke top-down pullover with set-in sleeve shaping

Top-down crochet pullover with a square yoke, worked in one piece with a 5.0 mm hook; sleeves are set aside at the

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Square yoke top-down pullover with set-in sleeve shaping
Garments · Worsted
Skill
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Yarn weight
Worsted
Hook
5.0 mm
Rounds
12

Intermediate

What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Worsted

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

12

Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.

This pullover starts at the neck and grows outward in one piece: a starting chain joined into a ring, then a square yoke built from corner increases until it reaches the width you need. From there, the body splits off at two underarm chains while each sleeve is set aside and worked separately in its own decreasing tube. Have both skeins wound and accessible, the 5.0 mm hook on hand, and four stitch markers ready to flag the yoke corners before Round 2 begins.

Common mistakes and their fixes

Losing count at a yoke corner
Mark each corner chain space with a stitch marker as soon as it is formed, and recheck the marker position before starting the next round.
Uneven underarm chains
Count both underarm chains of 8 before closing the body round; a mismatch between the two sides will pull the sleeves off-center.
Sleeve decreases drifting off the seam line
Work the double crochet two together consistently at the start or end of the round as directed, never both in the same round, to keep the decrease line straight down the underarm.

The materials list

  1. Yarn size 4 medium weight, approximately 2 skeins
  2. 5.0 mm crochet hook
  3. Scissors
  4. Blunt needle
  5. Stitch markers
  6. Tape measure

Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.

Key to this pattern, 5 short forms

Neckline and Initial Square Yoke

Round 1

Chain 80 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring.

Round 2

Chain 3 and work double crochet in the next 9 chains; chain 3 for the corner and double crochet in the next 20 chains; chain 3 for the next corner and double crochet in the next 20 chains; chain 3 for the third corner and double crochet in the next 20 chains; chain 3 for the final corner and double crochet in the remaining 10 chains; slip stitch to join the round.

Round 3

Chain 3 and work double crochet across the round; before each corner chain 1 and skip 1 stitch; in each corner chain space work double crochet, chain 2, double crochet, chain 2, double crochet; chain 1 after the corner and skip 1 stitch; continue double crochet across each side.

Round 4

On the next round work double crochet in each stitch; at each corner work 2 double crochet, chain 3 skipping the center stitch, then 2 double crochet.Repeat Round 3 and Round 4 until the yoke reaches your desired size.

Body

Round 1

Double crochet across to the corner; in the corner work 2 double crochet and 1 double crochet in the tip; chain 8 for the underarm and skip the entire sleeve section; double crochet into the next corner tip; continue double crochet across the back; chain 8 for the second underarm.

Round 2

Join the round and chain 3; work double crochet in every stitch and every underarm chain.Repeat Round 2 until the body reaches your desired length.

Sleeves

Round 1

Attach yarn at the underarm; double crochet evenly around the arm opening.

Round 2

Chain 3 and work double crochet two together at the start of the round; double crochet in the remaining stitches and join.

Round 3

Chain 3 and double crochet across until the last two stitches; work double crochet two together at the end of the round.Alternate Round 2 and Round 3 as decrease rounds to keep the seam straight.Continue until the sleeve reaches your desired length.

Cuffs and Edging

Round 1

Chain 13 and single crochet in the second chain from the hook and across.

Round 2

Slip stitch into the next three stitches of the sleeve edge; turn and single crochet in the back loop only across the cuff.

Rounds 3–5

Use the starting yarn tail to work front post and back post double crochet around the neckline to form a ribbed collar.Repeat the ribbing around the sleeve and sew the ends together.Repeat the same ribbing method along the bottom edge of the pullover.

Assembly, in order

Step 1Sew the ends of the cuff ribbing together after working it around the sleeve edge.

Check these before you start

  • Keep tension consistent across the yoke corners, since a loose chain-2 corner space in Round 3 will show as a flare once the yoke is laid flat.
  • Use stitch markers on the first stitch of each round through the body and sleeves; the join point shifts slightly as stitch counts change and is easy to lose without one.
  • The underarm chains of 8 stitches on each side are the hinge between body and sleeve; count them exactly, since a stitch gained or lost there changes the armhole fit.
  • Body width approximately 21 inches.
  • Body length approximately 23 inches.
  • Sleeve width approximately 9 inches.

On one line

Rounds12
Parts4
LevelIntermediate
Time4-6 hours
Hook5.0 mm
YarnWorsted

Set-up

  • Check that both skeins are wound and that you have enough yardage to carry through yoke, body, and two sleeves without a mid-round join.
  • Place a stitch marker at each of the four yoke corners before starting Round 3, since every later round depends on finding those corner spaces again.
  • Work a small double crochet swatch with the 5.0 mm hook to confirm your gauge matches the stated 21-inch body width before committing to 80 starting chains.
  • Read through Round 2 of the yoke twice before working it; the four corner chains land in specific stitch counts and are easy to misplace on a first pass.

Finishing

  1. Weave in all ends from yarn joins and from the two separate sleeve starts, working each end along the wrong side so it stays flat under the fabric.
  2. Sew the cuff ribbing ends together after working it around each sleeve edge, matching row ends so the seam sits flush rather than stepped.
  3. Block the finished pullover to its stated measurements, pinning the yoke corners square and the body to its 23-inch length before it dries.

Construction

The square yoke gets its shape from four corner increase points worked every round (Round 3's chain-2 corner spaces alternating with Round 4's paired double crochet and chain-3 corners), which is what turns a flat round into a square rather than a circle.

The underarm chains of 8 stitches in Body Round 1 are what separate the sleeve stitches from the body stitches at the join, letting the body continue around the torso while each sleeve is picked up and finished on its own afterward.

Time per section

Neckline and yokeabout 1.5 to 2 hours, because the repeated corner rounds require careful counting even though there are only 4 rounds
Bodyabout 1 to 1.5 hours, because the round count is low but each round covers the full 21-inch width
Sleeves and cuffsabout 1.5 to 2 hours for both sleeves, because each sleeve alternates decrease rounds and is worked twice

Photographs of this one

Every one was taken by whoever published the pattern, in the order the source listed them.

Square yoke top-down pullover with set-in sleeve shaping — photo 2
Square yoke top-down pullover with set-in sleeve shaping — photo 3

Common questions

Can the yoke be made larger than the stated size?
Yes, Round 3 and Round 4 are repeated until the yoke reaches your desired size, so additional repeats widen the shoulders and chest before the body splits off. Just keep the four corner markers in place through every added repeat.
Why does the sleeve get picked up separately instead of worked in one piece with the body?
The body Round 1 skips over the sleeve stitches with an 8-chain underarm, so the sleeve stitches are set aside rather than carried through the torso rounds. Working the sleeve afterward keeps the decrease shaping isolated to the arm instead of distorting the body rounds.
How do you know when to stop repeating the body and sleeve rounds?
The body repeats Round 2 until it reaches the noted 23-inch length, and the sleeves alternate their two decrease rounds until they reach your desired length. Measure against the tape measure at intervals rather than guessing by round count alone.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.