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Crochet bunny amigurumi with a hoodie outfit

Amigurumi bunny: 12-round head, 10-round ears, E-4/3.5mm hook plus 1.65mm for details.

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Crochet bunny amigurumi with a hoodie outfit
Amigurumi · Worsted
Skill
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Yarn weight
Worsted
Hook
3.5 mm
Rounds
29

Intermediate

What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Worsted

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

29

Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.

This bunny builds from a velvet or chenille body worked in continuous spiral rounds, with a 12-round head, 10-round ears, and a 3-round nose added in contrasting fingering weight. A removable hoodie outfit and an optional BLO skirt dress the finished shape, with a rolled-rosette headband as a separate trim piece. Before starting, have both hooks on hand — the E-4/3.5mm for the body and the steel 1.65mm for facial details — along with fiberfill, straight pins for sculpting, and a stitch marker, since every round is worked without joining.

Common mistakes and their fixes

Losing the round marker mid-spiral
Since no round is joined, move the stitch marker up at the start of every round without exception. If the count stops matching the written number, stop and recount back to the last confirmed round.
Stuffing the head too late
Add fiberfill lightly starting at Rnd 2 as directed, not just before closing the final round. Working it in early keeps the shape even and avoids lumps near the top.
Sculpting the face after features are sewn
Place the straight pin and complete the needle sculpting stages before attaching the eyes or nose. Sculpting after attachment shifts features out of alignment.

The materials list

Main yarn

  1. Velvet/chenille weight yarn (CYCA #5 Bulky), approx. ½ skein per bunny — neutral/gray recommended for the body

Accent yarn

  1. Velvet/chenille weight yarn in any contrasting color (for clothing)

Embroidery yarn

  1. Fingering weight (CYCA #1) in white, black, light blue, and pink
  2. Hook (main): E-4 / 3.5mm (or size E / 3mm — use the smaller for tighter amigurumi fabric)
  3. Hook (detail work): Steel hook size 7 / 1.65mm (or closest to 1.25mm available)

Stuffing

  1. Polyfill fiberfill
  2. Tapestry needle
  3. Scissors
  4. Stitch marker
  5. Straight pins (for face sculpting)

Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.

Key to this pattern, 9 short forms

Head

Step by step: Begin with black embroidery yarn and smaller hook.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

Inc in each st around. (12)Step by step: 2 sc. Stuff lightly. (12).Step by step: Change to light blue yarn. [1 sc, inc] × 3, 2 sc, sl st. (14); Using white yarn, embroider 2–3 small highlight stitches onto each eye.

Round 3

[1 sc, inc] × 6. (18)Work 1 sl st to offset seam. Fold flat and seam closed by working 4 sc through both layers. At the color-change join, work a row of sc edging around the junction.Step by step: [1 sc, dec] × 3. (6); Sc in each st around. (6).Fold flat and seam closed by working 3 sc through both layers. At the color-change join, work a row of sc edging around the junction.

Round 4

1 sc, inc, [2 sc, inc] × 5, 1 sc. (24)Step by step: Insert the head with joint into the body opening now.3 sc, [sc through body st and arm st together] × 3, 6 sc, [sc through body st and arm st together] × 3, 3 sc. (18)Step by step: BLO sc in each st around. (24); Sc in each st around. (24); 6 sc, dec × 6, 6 sc. (18); 3 sc, dec × 6, 3 sc. (12); For a jumpsuit/onesie: change to accent color yarn now; 3 sc, dec × 3, 3 sc. Stuff foot. (9).

Round 5

[3 sc, inc] × 6. (30)For a dress or hoodie: change to main color yarn now. For a jumpsuit/onesie: continue in accent color.Step by step: BLO sc in each st around. (30); Sc in each st around. (30).

Round 6

2 sc, inc, [4 sc, inc] × 5, 2 sc. (36)

Rounds 7–11

Sc in each st around. (36)Step by step: 10 sc, ch 7, skip 7 sts, 2 sc, ch 7, skip 7 sts, 10 sc. (36 working sts + 14 ch).Step by step: Change to accent color yarn; [2 sc, dec] × 3. Stuff lower portion of arm only. (9).

Round 12

2 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec] × 5, 2 sc. (30)Insert completed head into the hood. The cotter pin exits from the bottom of the hood, set back approximately 2 rows from the lower edge.

Round 13

[3 sc, dec] × 6. (24)Step by step: Stuff body firmly.5 sc, [sc through body st and leg st together] × 4, 8 sc, [sc through body st and leg st together] × 4, 3 sc. (24)

Round 14

1 sc, dec, [2 sc, dec] × 5, 1 sc. (18)Stuff head firmly now. If using the rotating joint, insert the disc and cotter pin before continuing.

Round 15

[1 sc, dec] × 6. (12)

Round 16

Dec × 6. Fasten off, leave a tail, and pull tight to close. (0)

Ears (make 2)

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

Inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3

[1 sc, inc] × 6. (18)

Round 4

Sc in each st around. (18)

Round 5

[4 sc, dec] × 3. (15)

Rounds 6–7

Sc in each st around. (15)

Round 8

[3 sc, dec] × 3. (12)

Rounds 9–10

Sc in each st around. (12)

Round 11

[2 sc, dec] × 3. (9)

Round 12

Sc in each st around. (9) Fasten off, leave a tail, and pull tight to close.

Nose

Pink embroidery yarn, smaller hook.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

[1 sc, inc] × 3. (9)

Round 3

Sc in each st around. (9)Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Skirt (optional — worked from BLO ridge on Body Rnd 10)

Round 1

Join yarn in any available back loop from Body Rnd 10. Sc in each st around. (30)

Round 2

Inc in each st around. (60)

Round 3

Inc in each st around. (120)

Round 4

Sc in each st around. (120)Fasten off and weave in ends.

Headband with Rolled Rosette

Ch 28. Join with sl st to form a ring.

Attach accent color yarn. Sc across 18 sts. Turn work. Inc in each st to end of row.

Roll the accent-color section into a tight coil to form a gathered bobble rosette. Secure with a few stitches using the yarn tail.

Assembly, in order

Step 1Sew the ears to the top of the head, positioning them symmetrically. Refer to progress photos for placement — the ears should sit upright at the crown.
Step 2Perform face sculpting (needle sculpting) before attaching the face pieces. Place a straight pin between Rnds 7 and 8 at the center of the muzzle area as a guide. Stage 1: Insert the needle 7 rows below the pin, pass upward, exit 5 stitches to one side of the pin, shift 2 stitches sideways, and re-enter downward. Repeat on the mirror side. Pull taut to create the muzzle indent. Stage 2: Lay yarn across the surface and insert the needle 6 rows above, exiting straight back, to form the cheeks. Pull taut. Stage 3: Exit at one eye position, pass through to the opposite eye, shift 1 stitch upward, and return to the opposite side slightly higher. Pull taut to define the nose bridge.
Step 3Sew the eyes onto the face, centered on the sculpted area.
Step 4Sew the nose below the eye line, centered on the muzzle.
Step 5Using black embroidery yarn, embroider eyelashes and eyebrows. Add white surface stitches below each eye.
Step 6Insert the hooded head onto the body joint and secure.
Step 7If making a hoodie/sweatshirt version, work one round of sc edging along the full color-change circumference between the main and accent colors on the body.
Step 8Sew the tail to the back of the body at the lower center.
Step 9Attach the headband with rosette around the head if making the headband version.
Step 10Weave in all ends securely.

Check these before you start

  • Work every piece in continuous spiral rounds with no slip-stitch join; a missed marker is the most common source of a round count drifting off from what is written.
  • Keep tension firm and consistent rather than chasing an exact gauge — the fabric needs to close tight enough that fiberfill does not show through the stitches.
  • Stuff the Head lightly in the early rounds as directed at Rnd 2, then firm it up as rounds close, rather than packing fiberfill in all at once near the end.

On one line

Rounds29
Parts5
LevelIntermediate
Time4-6 hours
Hook3.5 mm
YarnWorsted

Set-up

  • Place a stitch marker before Rnd 1 of the head and move it each round; nothing in this pattern joins, so a dropped marker means a lost round count.
  • Read through the Head's 12 rounds once before stuffing begins, noting where increases taper off, so stuffing timing lines up with the stated round numbers.
  • Check yarn quantity against the ½-skein body estimate and set aside enough contrasting velvet for the clothing pieces before the first magic ring.

Finishing

  1. Weave in all loose ends from color changes and fastened-off pieces before assembly, pulling each tail through the stuffed fabric rather than trimming it flush.
  2. Complete needle sculpting at the pinned guide points between Rnds 7 and 8 before attaching eyes or nose, so the face shape is set before features are fixed in place.
  3. Sew the Ears to the crown symmetrically, then attach Nose and Eyes using the sculpted muzzle center as the reference point for placement.

Construction

The Head's increase pattern front-loads shaping in the early rounds (6, then 12 stitches) before settling into longer plain rounds, which builds a rounded crown before the face rounds begin.

The Ears alternate increase and decrease rounds across 10 rounds (6 to 12 to 18, then down to 15), producing a curved, tapered shape rather than a flat disc.

Time per section

Headabout 45-60 minutes because 12 rounds plus needle sculpting and feature placement
Ears (make 2)about 25-35 minutes because 10 rounds each with alternating increase and decrease shaping
Nose and small detailsabout 15-20 minutes because only 3 rounds but worked on the smaller 1.65mm hook

Common questions

Why does the pattern use two different hook sizes?
The E-4/3.5mm hook suits the bulkier velvet or chenille body yarn, producing a firm, gap-free fabric. The steel 1.65mm hook is for the fingering-weight nose and embroidered details, where a smaller hook keeps those pieces in proportion.
What happens if the stitch count stops matching partway through a round?
Since every piece works in a continuous spiral with no join, a miscount usually traces back to a skipped or doubled stitch near an increase or decrease round. Stop at the end of the current round, recount against the stated number, and unpick back to the last round that matched.
When should the face sculpting happen relative to attaching the eyes and nose?
Needle sculpting is done first, using the straight pin placed between Rnds 7 and 8 as the guide point. Attach the Nose, Eyes, and Ears only after the sculpting stages are complete, so the features sit on an already-shaped face.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.