Intermediate
What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.
Accessories 20 Laid out for paper No account, no download
Beaded Victorian Lace Choker in Fine Cotton Thread
Thread choker, 13-round band plus lace border, US Steel Hook 7 / 1.65mm, pre-strung beads.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Time
- 6-10 hours
- Yarn weight
- Lace (Size 10 Crochet Cotton)
- Hook
- 1.65 mm
- Rounds
- 20
Lace (Size 10 Crochet Cotton)
What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.
20
Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.
This choker builds a straight, structured band across 13 rows of single crochet, then turns to the foundation edge and fans a scalloped lace border downward, with rose gold seed beads caught inside the stitches as they form. A filigree pendant anchors the center front, and ribbon crimps with a lobster clasp finish the back for an adjustable fit. Before starting, pre-string 80 to 100 size 6/0 beads onto the thread, confirm gauge with the Size 7 steel hook, and set aside a blocking board and rust-proof pins for the final shaping.
This pattern is rated intermediate to advanced. You need to be comfortable working with fine thread and a small hook, reading lace instructions, pre-stringing beads onto thread, placing beads precisely within your stitchwork, maintaining even tension over many rows, and attaching hardware findings to a finished textile piece. No garment shaping is involved, but the stitch density and materials demand patience and practice; if you've never worked with thread crochet before, practice with a small swatch first to get comfortable with the tension. Plan for 6 to 10 hours total depending on your experience with thread crochet and bead work.
Length (excluding clasp and extender): 13 inches / 33 cm. Length (including extender chain): adjustable to 14.5 inches / 37 cm. Band height (straight upper section): 1.25 inches / 3.2 cm. Total choker height including lace border: 2.5 inches / 6.4 cm. These measurements produce a choker that fits a neck circumference of approximately 13 to 14.5 inches / 33 to 37 cm.
Common mistakes and their fixes
- Stringing beads after chaining begins
- Unravel and restring before the foundation chain; beads must be loaded onto the thread first since there is no mid-pattern entry point for them.
- Losing track of BLO versus both-loop rows
- Mark Row 1 with a scrap thread and count rows aloud as you work; the texture only reads correctly if the alternation holds across all 13 rows.
- Skipping the width checkpoint after Row 13
- Measure before touching the lace border — if the band is not 13 inches wide, the 143-stitch lace repeat will not divide evenly into the 11 planned fan-and-diamond sections.
The materials list
Thread
- Size 10 crochet cotton thread, approximately 200 yards / 183 meters, in dusty rose or antique mauve
Hook
- US Steel Hook Size 7 / 1.65 mm (or size needed to achieve gauge)
Beads
- Approximately 80 to 100 size 6/0 seed beads in rose gold or copper metallic
Notions
- 1 lobster claw clasp in rose gold
- 1 jump ring, 5 to 6 mm, in rose gold
- Jewelry pliers (flat nose and round nose)
- Sharp tapestry needle for weaving ends
- Fabric stiffener or blocking solution
- Blocking board and rust-proof pins
- 2 ribbon-end crimp findings (flat, approximately 10 mm wide) in rose gold
- 1 extender chain, 1.5 inches / 4 cm, in rose gold, with a small leaf or ornamental drop charm at the end
- 1 decorative filigree charm pendant in rose gold (approximately 18 to 22 mm, diamond or medallion shape with scroll details)
Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.
Key to this pattern, 25 short forms
Part 1: The Band
Before beginning, decide whether to use the Foundation Single Crochet method or a standard chain foundation. Both produce the same result. Instructions below use the standard chain method.
Chain 146. (This creates a foundation chain. The working stitch count will be 143 single crochets after the first row is established.)
Row 1
(RS): Starting in the second chain from hook, single crochet across. Do not skip the turning chain at the beginning of this row. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 2
(WS): Chain 1 (does not count as stitch throughout band section). Working in both loops, single crochet across. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 3
(RS): Chain 1. Working in back loops only, single crochet across. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 4
(WS): Chain 1. Working in both loops, single crochet across. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 5
(RS): Chain 1. Working in back loops only, single crochet across. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 6
(WS): Chain 1. Working in both loops, single crochet across. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 7
(RS): Chain 1. Working in back loops only, single crochet across. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 8
(WS): Chain 1. Working in both loops, single crochet across. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 9
(RS): Chain 1. Working in back loops only, single crochet across. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 10
(WS): Chain 1. Working in both loops, single crochet across. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 11
(RS): Chain 1. Working in back loops only, single crochet across. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 12
(WS): Chain 1. Working in both loops, single crochet across. Turn. (143 sc)
Row 13
(RS): Chain 1. Working in back loops only, single crochet across. Do not turn and do not fasten off. This is the final row of the band. (143 sc)
Band Checkpoint
After Row 13, the band should measure 13 inches / 33 cm wide and 1.25 inches / 3.2 cm tall. The alternating BLO and both-loop rows create a subtle ridge texture across the band. If your band does not reach 13 inches / 33 cm in width, your tension is too tight. Try a larger hook. If wider, try a smaller hook. Do not proceed until the band width is correct.
Part 2: The Lace Border
The lace border is worked directly from the lower edge of the completed band. The lower edge is the foundation chain edge at the bottom of Row 1. After completing Row 13 of the band, fold your work and return to the bottom of Row 1. Alternatively, fasten off at end of Row 13, leaving a tail, and rejoin with a slip stitch to the right end of the foundation chain edge with RS facing.
The lace border is worked with RS facing throughout. Do not turn between rows of the border.
Lace Setup
Row (RS, working along foundation chain edge): Join thread with slip stitch at right end of lower foundation chain edge. Chain 1. Work 143 single crochets evenly across the lower edge by inserting hook into each remaining loop of the original foundation chain. Turn. (143 sc)This row establishes the base for the lace pattern. The 143 stitches divide into 11 repeats of 13 stitches.
Lace Row 1
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same first sc, [ch 1, sk 1 sc, dc in next sc] 71 times. Turn. (73 dc counting ch-3, 71 ch-1 sps)
Lace Row 2
Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc (edge half-shell, 3 dc total), ch 2, sc in next dc, ch 2, 5 dc in next dc repeat between asterisks 10 times, ch 2, sc in next dc, ch 2, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn. (12 shell groups: two 3-dc half-shells at edges plus ten 5-dc shells in center plus 11 sc in valleys)
Lace Row 3
Diamond and bead row Ch 1. Sc in first dc (top of edge half-shell). Ch 3, bead-ch (slide 1 bead up, ch 1 to lock bead), ch 3, sc in center dc of 5-dc shell repeat 10 times, ending ch 3, bead-ch, ch 3, sc in top of final edge 3-dc group. Turn. (12 sc, 11 beaded arch repeats)
Lace Row 4
Second shell tier with bead accents Ch 3. 2 dc in first sc (edge 3-dc). Bead-sc in center of next arch (the bead-ch position), 5 dc in next sc (work shell into the sc between arches) repeat 10 times. Bead-sc in center of last arch. 3 dc in last sc. Turn.
Note: The bead-sc placements add 11 beads across this row.
Lace Row 5
(scallop points with picots): Ch 1. Sc in first dc. Ch 2. In center (3rd) dc of next 5-dc shell work: (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc). Ch 2. Sc in sc between shells. Repeat from asterisk across, ending after final 5-dc shell. After last repeat: ch 2, in center of last edge half-shell work (dc, ch 1, dc), ch 2, sc in last dc. Do not turn. Do not fasten off yet.
Picot Edging
Along final row: Working back along the tops of the fan points just made, slip stitch to first ch-1 sp of first V-fan. Work picot (ch 3, sl st in first ch of ch-3) in each ch-1 sp across each fan. Sl st to move along connecting sc and ch-2 sps. Continue to each fan point across the full row. Fasten off.
Lace Border Checkpoint
After completing all 5 lace rows, the border should hang approximately 1.25 inches / 3.2 cm below the lower edge of the band. The total choker height should be approximately 2.5 inches / 6.4 cm. The scallop points should be visible and distinct. Count 11 complete fan points across the full length. If any points are pulling or puckering, the piece needs blocking before proceeding.
Assembly, in order
Step 1Step 1: Weave all ends. Thread each yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave it invisibly through the back of the band stitches for at least 1 inch / 2.5 cm in two directions. Trim close. Do not leave tails near the short ends of the choker where hardware will be applied.
Step 2Step 2: Blocking. Submerge the choker in cool water for 10 minutes to allow the cotton to fully saturate. Gently squeeze out excess water. Do not wring. Lay flat on blocking board. Pin the upper edge of the band in a straight line, spacing pins every 0.5 inch / 1.3 cm. Pin each scallop point outward and downward, stretching gently to open the lace diamonds fully. The scallop points should be pulled firmly into their pointed shape. Apply a light layer of fabric stiffener to the lace border only (not the band) using a small brush or spray bottle. Allow to dry completely (8 to 12 hours). Once dry, remove pins. The choker will hold its shape.
Step 3Step 3: Attaching ribbon-end crimp findings. Apply a small amount of jewelry adhesive (such as E6000 or GS Hypo Cement) to the inside jaw of one crimp finding. Insert one short end of the choker band into the jaw of the crimp finding, folding the edge over minimally if needed to fill the jaw width. Using flat-nose pliers, crimp the jaw firmly closed on both sides. Hold for 30 seconds. Repeat for the other end. Allow adhesive to cure for at least 2 hours before attaching clasp.
Step 4Step 4: Attaching clasp and extender. Using a jump ring, connect the lobster claw clasp to the loop on one crimp finding. Connect the extender chain to the loop on the other crimp finding using a jump ring. The leaf or ornamental drop charm should already be at the free end of the extender chain.
Step 5Step 5: Attaching center front pendant charm. Identify the center sc of the lace border (this is the sc in the valley at the 6th repeat out of 11, which sits at the center front). Using a jump ring, loop through a stitch at this position and attach the filigree charm pendant through the jump ring. Close the jump ring securely with pliers.
Step 6Step 6: Final inspection. Hold the choker up by the clasp and allow it to hang to check symmetry of the lace border. All 11 fan points should hang at equal depth. The center front charm should hang freely at the lowest point of the center fan.
Check these before you start
- Keep the US Steel Hook Size 7 / 1.65 mm consistent throughout; a half-size change in either direction will shift the band width off the required 13 inches.
- The band alternates both-loop and back-loop-only rows, so check which loop each row calls for before working it — the ridge texture depends on getting this alternation right.
- Beads sit inside the lace border only, not the band, so slide beads into position stitch by stitch as you reach each one rather than pushing them all forward at once.
- Gauge is critical to the finished size: with the US Steel Hook Size 7 / 1.65 mm, aim for 22 stitches = 2 inches / 5 cm in single crochet and 10 rows of single crochet = 1 inch / 2.5 cm; one complete lace fan-and-diamond repeat should measure approximately 1.1 inches / 2.8 cm wide. Swatch before beginning and adjust hook size if necessary.
- Use a size 10 (fine/thread weight) 100% cotton or cotton-blend crochet thread. Avoid acrylic or nylon threads, as they will not block well enough to maintain the structured lace edge shape; mercerized cotton is preferred for sheen. Do not substitute a heavier weight.
On one line
| Rounds | 20 |
|---|---|
| Parts | 4 |
| Level | Intermediate |
| Time | 6-10 hours |
| Hook | 1.65 mm |
| Yarn | Lace (Size 10 Crochet Cotton) |
Set-up
- Pre-string all 80 to 100 seed beads onto the cotton thread before chaining — there is no way to add them later without breaking the thread.
- Work a small gauge swatch in single crochet and confirm 22 stitches = 2 inches before chaining 146; tension drives the entire fit of this piece.
- Read through Lace Row 1 once before starting the border so the ch-3/dc/ch-1 repeat and the 13-stitch pattern division make sense before beads enter the picture.
- Lay out the lobster clasp, jump ring, and ribbon crimps near your work area now, since Finishing moves quickly from blocking straight into hardware attachment.
Finishing
- Weave every tail through the back of the band stitches for at least 1 inch in two directions, trimming close and avoiding the short ends where hardware will attach.
- Submerge the piece in cool water for 10 minutes, squeeze gently without wringing, then pin the upper band edge flat on a blocking board to set the shape.
- Once dry, attach the ribbon-end crimps to the short ends, add the jump ring and lobster clasp with the extender chain, and fix the filigree pendant at center front.
Construction
The band is worked flat from a 146-chain foundation because the straight upper edge needs to stay clean and uncurled, which only a flat, turned row structure can guarantee across 13 rows.
The lace border picks up stitches from the original foundation chain edge rather than the last row of the band, so the join runs along the very first row worked — this is why the pattern instructs rejoining or folding back to Row 1 instead of continuing from Row 13.
Time per section
| Part 1: The Band | about 2 to 3 hours because 13 rows of fine-thread single crochet across 143 stitches takes steady, slow tension |
|---|---|
| Part 2: The Lace Border | about 2 to 3 hours because the ch-3/ch-1 repeat and precise bead placement across 11 pattern repeats is fiddly work |
| Finishing and hardware | about 1 to 2 hours because blocking, drying time, and attaching crimps, clasp, and pendant each need care |
Common questions
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.