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Charcoal gray crochet sandals with buckle straps

Flat sc sole with sc border, two buckle straps. Sport weight cotton, 3.25mm hook. 25 sc base, ~62 sc edge.

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Charcoal gray crochet sandals with buckle straps
Accessories · Sport
Skill
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Yarn weight
Sport
Hook
3.25 mm
Rounds
15

Intermediate

What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Sport

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

15

Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.

This is a pair of charcoal gray crochet sandals built from a flat single crochet sole, a center vertical strap, and a separate ankle strap that closes with a small buckle. The sole starts as a chain-26 rectangle worked even for several rows, then gets a single crochet border worked around the entire piece with extra stitches at each corner before the strap pieces are added. Work from sport weight cotton on a 3.25mm hook, and have two 10mm buckles and a tapestry needle on hand before starting.

Common mistakes and their fixes

Miscounting the Part 4 foundation chain
Chain 26 and check for 25 sc after the first row; working the sole one stitch short throws off the corner placement in Row 5.
Turning at the end of Row 5
Row 5 of Part 4 says do not turn — keep working around the piece in the same direction so the sc border meets itself with a slip stitch instead of leaving a seam.
Cutting the ankle strap tail too short
Leave a long tail when you fasten off each ankle strap in Part 5; you need that length to sew the strap to the sole and vertical strap, not just to weave in.

The materials list

  1. Approximately 150 yards of sport weight cotton yarn (size 2 fine) in charcoal gray
  2. Cotton or cotton blend works best for durability and washability
  3. Scheepjes Catona, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, or Drops Safran
  4. Size 3.25mm (D/3) crochet hook
  5. Two small buckles, approximately 10mm width
  6. Tapestry needle
  7. Scissors
  8. leather needle if soles require it

Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.

Key to this pattern, 6 short forms

Gauge

One complete granny square motif measures approximately 2.5 inches square after blocking.

Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions Let me walk you through every stitch you’ll encounter in this pattern.

Ch = Chain: Wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop on hook. This creates foundation stitches.

Sl st = Slip stitch: Insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once. Used for joining and moving across stitches invisibly.

Sc = Single crochet: Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. Creates a short, tight stitch.

Dc = Double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops. Creates a taller stitch with nice drape.

3-dc cluster = Three double crochets worked into the same stitch or space, creating a shell effect.

Pattern Notes Before You Begin Read this section completely before starting. Trust me, it saves headaches later.

This pattern is written in US crochet terminology Each sandal requires two granny square motifs for the foot upper, plus straps

Work all pieces first, then assemble onto the soles Blocking is essential for a professional finish Soles typically come in standard shoe sizes, so purchase your correct size

Don’t stress if your first motif looks a little wonky. Block it and watch the magic happen.

Granny Square Motif (Make 4 Total, 2 Per Sandal)

These form the main decorative element across the top of each foot.

Round 1

Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), work 2 dc into ring, ch 2, *3 dc into ring, ch 2* three more times. Sl st to top of beginning ch-3 to join. (4 groups of 3-dc clusters, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)Step by step: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. (5 sc) Fasten off with long tail.

Assembly Instructions Here’s where everything comes together. Take your time with this section.

Step by step: Step 1: Join the Granny Squares.

Place two granny squares side by side. Using a whip stitch or mattress stitch, sew them together along one edge. This creates your foot upper panel.

Step by step: Step 2: Attach to Sole.

Position the joined squares on top of your sandal sole, centered over the ball of the foot area. Using your tapestry needle and matching yarn, sew through the pre-punched holes in the sole. Work slowly and keep your stitches even. If your sole has leather, you may need a leather needle.

Step by step: Step 3: Attach Toe Strap.

Position the toe strap across the front edge of your granny square panel, overlapping slightly. Sew securely in place, then attach the other edge to the sole through the pre-punched holes.

Step by step: Step 4: Add Center Vertical Strap.

Sew one end of the center strap to the back edge of the granny square panel. The other end will connect to the ankle strap.

Step by step: Step 5: Attach Side Straps.

Sew the side straps to each outer edge of the granny square panel. These will also connect to the ankle area.

Step by step: Step 6: Complete Ankle Assembly.

Attach the ankle strap, weaving through or sewing to the side straps and center strap. On one end, fold the buckle loop around your buckle and sew it closed. Attach this to one end of the ankle strap. The other end should be able to thread through the buckle for closure.

Step by step: Step 7: Final Securing.

Go back and reinforce any attachment points that feel loose. Add extra stitches where the straps meet the sole.

Step by step: Sizing Adjustments The beauty of this crochet tutorial is its adaptability.

For smaller sizes , reduce your granny square to 3 rounds before the border round. Shorten all straps by a few rows.

For larger sizes , add an additional round to each granny square. Lengthen straps as needed, checking against your own measurements.

Always measure against your foot as you work. Crochet is forgiving, and adjusting as you go is much easier than frogging finished pieces.

Step by step: Care Instructions.

Hand wash your sandals in cool water with mild soap. Reshape while damp and allow to air dry completely before wearing. The soles can be wiped clean with a damp cloth.

Avoid machine washing, which can damage the attachment points between the crochet and sole.

Step by step: Tips for Success.

Block everything. I cannot stress this enough. Blocking transforms lumpy, uneven pieces into professional-looking components.

Use stitch markers liberally. Mark your corners, mark your joining points, mark anything that helps you stay oriented.

Test your tension. If your squares come out much larger or smaller than the gauge, adjust your hook size accordingly.

Don’t rush assembly. The sewing portion determines how professional your finished sandals look. Take breaks if you feel frustrated.

I really hope you enjoy making these crochet sandals as much as I enjoyed designing them. They’re such a satisfying project, and wearing handmade footwear feels incredibly special. If you give this pattern a try, I’d love to see your finished sandals! Tag me on Instagram or share in my Facebook group.

If this pattern caught your eye, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make these. I genuinely love seeing what you create, and your photos always make my day!

Round 2

Sl st across to first corner ch-2 space. Ch 3, 2 dc in same corner space, ch 1, 3 dc in same corner space, ch 1, *in next corner space work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), ch 1* around. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. (8 groups of 3-dc clusters, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)

Round 3

Sl st to corner space. Ch 3, 2 dc in corner space, ch 2, 3 dc in same corner space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, *in corner space work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), ch 1, 3 dc in ch-1 space, ch 1* around. Sl st to join. (12 groups of 3-dc clusters)

Round 4

Sl st to corner space. Ch 3, 2 dc in corner space, ch 2, 3 dc in same corner space, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space* across to next corner, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner space. Repeat around. Sl st to join. (16 groups of 3-dc clusters)

Round 5

Border Round Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each dc and ch-1 space around, working 3 sc in each corner ch-2 space. Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off. (Approximately 60 sc)Weave in ends and block each square to 2.5 inches.

Toe Strap (Make 2)

This creates the band that goes across your toes.

Part 4

Round 1

Ch 26. Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (25 sc)

Rounds 2–4

Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. (25 sc)

Round 5

Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Do not turn. Continue around entire piece with sc evenly spaced, working 3 sc in each corner. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (Approximately 62 sc around entire edge)

This edging creates a clean, finished border and adds stability.

Center Vertical Strap (Make 2)

This connects the toe strap to the ankle section.

Part 5

Round 1

Ch 6. Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (5 sc)

Rounds 2–22

Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. (5 sc) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

The length may need adjustment depending on your foot size. Standard is approximately 4.5 inches, but measure against your own foot if possible.

Ankle Strap (Make 2)

Part 6

Round 1

Ch 46. Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (45 sc)

Rounds 2–3

Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. (45 sc)

Round 4

Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Do not turn. Continue around entire piece with sc border as before. Sl st to join. Fasten off.

Buckle Loop (Make 2)

This small piece holds your buckle in place.

Part 7

Round 1

Ch 10. Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (9 sc)

Rounds 2–3

Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. (9 sc) Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Side Straps (Make 4 Total, 2 Per Sandal)

These connect the ankle strap to the foot section on each side.

Check these before you start

  • Use a 3.25mm (D/3) hook throughout; the sole, both straps, and the edging all depend on the same gauge to meet up correctly at assembly.
  • Choose a cotton or cotton blend yarn rather than acrylic — the pattern is built around cotton's drape and washability for a wearable sole and strap.
  • If your finished soles will sit against a rigid insole or leather backing, keep a leather needle nearby for attaching them; a standard tapestry needle will not pierce leather cleanly.

On one line

Rounds15
Parts5
LevelIntermediate
Time4-6 hours
Hook3.25 mm
YarnSport

Set-up

  • Confirm you have roughly 150 yards of sport weight cotton on hand; this project leaves little margin for a second skein in the same dye lot.
  • Work the gauge swatch and block it before starting the sole, since the stated gauge is checked after blocking, not straight off the hook.
  • Read Part 4, Row 5 in full before you reach it; the sole border is worked without turning and needs 3 sc placed at each corner to lie flat.
  • Measure your foot against the standard 4.5 inch ankle strap length in Part 5 and decide now whether you need to add or remove rows.

Finishing

  1. Weave in all ends with the tapestry needle, including the tails at the start and end of the sole's Row 5 edging round.
  2. Use the long tail left after fastening off each ankle strap (Part 5) to sew the strap securely to the sole and vertical strap.
  3. Attach both 10mm buckles to the finished ankle straps, then block the assembled sandal lightly so the sc border sits flat along every edge.

Construction

The sole is worked flat for four rows from a 26-chain foundation, then finished without turning: a single crochet border runs around the entire outer edge with 3 sc placed in each corner, which is what lets a rectangular piece turn a clean 90-degree edge instead of puckering.

The straps are built as separate flat pieces rather than in the round — the center vertical strap grows out of the sole's edging, while each ankle strap is an independent 5-sc-wide strip worked for 22 rows — so they can be sewn on and length-adjusted individually before the buckles go on.

Time per section

Sole and border (Part 4)about 45 minutes, because the piece is 4 rows wide plus a full sc border of roughly 62 stitches with corner shaping
Ankle straps, make 2 (Part 5)about 1 hour, because each strap repeats 22 rows of plain sc and there are two to complete
Vertical strap, buckle fitting, and assembly (Parts 6-7)about 1 to 1.5 hours, because buckle placement and sewing the straps to the sole take more care than the stitching itself

Common questions

Can a different cotton yarn replace the ones listed?
Yes, as long as it is a sport weight (size 2 fine) cotton or cotton blend that matches the stated gauge. Scheepjes Catona, 24/7 Cotton, and Drops Safran are listed because they hold up well for footwear, but any yarn in the same weight and fiber category will work.
How do you adjust the ankle strap for a smaller or larger foot?
Add or remove rows from the 22-row repeat in Part 5 before fastening off, since the standard length given is approximately 4.5 inches. Try the strap against your foot partway through to judge the fit before cutting the yarn.
Do the straps need blocking before the buckles go on?
A light block helps the straps lie flat and line up evenly with the sole's sc border. Attach the buckles afterward, once the pieces have dried and held their shape.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.