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Frost-blue tulip and forget-me-not crochet bracelet

Crochet bracelet: 7 stuffed tulip buds, sage leaves, pearls on elastic, size 7 (1.65mm) steel hook.

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Frost-blue tulip and forget-me-not crochet bracelet
Accessories · Size 10 Thread
Skill
Intermediate
Time
5-7 hours
Yarn weight
Size 10 Thread
Hook
1.65 mm
Rounds
33

Intermediate

What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Size 10 Thread

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

33

Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.

This bracelet builds each tulip bud from three separate layers worked around a stuffed core: an inner core shaped in continuous rounds, inner petals worked flat and joined into marked stitches, and outer petals finished with puff-stitch texture along the front loop. Seven buds in pale ice blue pair with sage leaves, a calyx at each base, and small forget-me-not accents in white or cream. Before starting, have size 10 crochet cotton in three colors, a size 7 steel hook, locking stitch markers, pearl beads, and elastic beading cord on hand.

Common mistakes and their fixes

Losing count mid-puff stitch
Check the loop count on the hook after each step: 3 loops, then 5, then 7 before pulling through all of them. If the count is off, pull back to the last correct step rather than finishing the stitch.
No marker at the start of Round 1
The inner core is worked without a join, so place a locking stitch marker in the first stitch of every round from the very start or the round's beginning will be lost.
Working outer petals into both loops
Row 1 of Outer Petal 1 calls for front loop only, leaving the back loop for the puff stitch texture. If the back loop is gone, frog back and restart into the front loop only.

The materials list

  1. Crochet Thread
  2. You need size 10 crochet cotton thread in three colors:
  3. Color A (Pale Ice Blue): Approximately 120 yards for tulip petals and forget-me-not petals
  4. Color B (Sage Green): Approximately 80 yards for leaves and tulip calyxes
  5. Color C (White or Cream): Approximately 5 yards for forget-me-not centers
  6. Recommended Thread Brands
  7. Coats and Clark Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread Size 10 in Soft Blue (shade 805) works beautifully for Color A. DMC Cebelia Size 10 in color 3053 (sage) is excellent for Color B. Lizbeth Size 10 by Handy Hands offers consistent twist and smooth surface for this type of sculptural work.
  8. Hook
  9. Size 7 steel hook (1.65 mm). Keep a size 6 steel hook (1.8 mm) nearby if your tension runs tight.
  10. Pearl Beads
  11. Approximately 90 to 100 round pearl or pearl-finish beads, 6 mm diameter. The holes must be large enough for elastic cord to pass through twice.
  12. Additional Supplies
  13. 0.7 mm clear or white elastic beading cord, 20 inches
  14. Small amount of polyester fiberfill (less than 0.25 oz)
  15. Tapestry needle, size 24 or 26
  16. Wire cutters and round-nose pliers
  17. Scissors
  18. 4 to 6 locking stitch markers
  19. Jeweler’s glue or clear nail polish
  20. 26-gauge white or green floral wire, approximately 10 stems cut to 3 inches each

Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.

Key to this pattern, 15 short forms

Section 1: Tulip Bud Inner Core

Make 7 in Color A.

Round 1

MR, ch 1, work 6 sc into ring, pull tail to close ring. Do not join. Place marker. (6 sts)

Round 2

Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3

[Sc in next st, inc in next st] 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 4

[Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (24 sts)

Round 5

Sc in each st around. (24 sts)

Round 6

Sc in each st around. (24 sts)

Round 7

[Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 8

[Sc in next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12 sts) At this point, lightly stuff the inner core with fiberfill. Insert wire stem now. Fold a 3-inch piece of wire in half, twist the two halves together at the base to form a single stem, and insert through the open base of the bud.

Round 9

[Sc2tog] 6 times. (6 sts) Sl st in next st to close. Leave a 6-inch tail and fasten off. Thread tail onto tapestry needle and weave through the 6 remaining sts, pull gently to close the top. Secure and trim.

Checkpoint: Each inner core should measure approximately 0.75 inches tall and 0.75 inches in diameter at its widest point.

Petal 1

Section 2: Tulip Inner Petals. Make 7 sets in Color A. Each set has 3 inner petals. With inner core held with the closed tip pointing up and wire stem pointing down, identify Round 4 (the round of 24 stitches). Divide into 3 groups of 8 stitches. Place markers at stitches 1, 9, and 17.

Join Color A with a standing sc into the first marked stitch of group 1.

Row 1

(RS): Sc in same st, sc in next 7 sts. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 2

Ch 1, dec, sc in next 4 sts, dec. Turn. (6 sts)

Row 3

Ch 1, dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec. Turn. (4 sts)

Row 4

Ch 1, [dec] 2 times. Turn. (2 sts)

Row 5

Ch 1, sc2tog. (1 st) Do not fasten off. Sl st down the side edge of the petal back to the base ring (approximately 5 sl sts). Join with sl st to the first stitch of group 2.Petals 2 and 3: Work exactly as Petal 1 into groups 2 and 3. After completing Petal 3, fasten off and weave in the 6-inch tail.

Checkpoint: The three inner petals should nestle snugly around the inner core, each tapering to a rounded point.

Outer Petal 1

Join Color A with a standing sc into the first marked flo stitch of group 1.

Row 1

(RS): Working in flo only, [puff stitch in next st, ch 1] 4 times, sc in last 3 sts. Turn. (4 puffs, 3 sc, 4 ch-1 sps)

Row 2

Ch 1, sc in each st and each ch-1 sp across. Turn. (11 sts)

Row 3

Ch 1, dec, sc in next 7 sts, dec. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 4

Ch 1, dec, sc in next 5 sts, dec. Turn. (7 sts)

Row 5

Ch 1, dec, sc in next 3 sts, dec. Turn. (5 sts)

Row 6

Ch 1, dec, sc in next st, dec. Turn. (3 sts)

Row 7

Ch 1, sc3tog. (1 st) Fasten off. Leave a 4-inch tail and weave in. Sl st down the edge back to the base ring before beginning the next petal.

Sepal (Repeat 5 Times)

Row 1

Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts. Turn. (6 sts)

Row 2

Ch 1, dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec. Turn. (4 sts)

Row 3

Ch 1, dec, dec. Turn. (2 sts)

Row 4

Ch 1, sc2tog. (1 st) Fasten off. Rejoin Color B with a sl st into the next unworked stitch of Round 4 and begin the next sepal.

After all 5 sepals are complete, weave in ends. Slip the calyx over the base of the assembled tulip bud. The blo ridge of Round 3 should sit at the base of the petal layers. Sew the calyx firmly to the base using the wire stem as an anchor point. Bend the wire loop flat against the outside.

Checkpoint: The assembled tulip bud with calyx should measure approximately 1.25 inches tall.

Section 4: Tulip Calyx

Make 7 in Color B.

Round 1

MR, ch 1, work 10 sc into ring. Do not join. (10 sts)

Round 2

Inc in each st around. (20 sts)

Round 3

Working in blo only, sc in each st around. (20 sts)

Round 4

[Sc in next st, inc in next st] 10 times. (30 sts) Now work 5 sepal points directly into Round 4. Each sepal uses 6 consecutive stitches.

Section 5: Leaves

Make 14 in Color B.

Foundation chain: Ch 13.

Round 1

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 3 sts, tr in next 3 sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in last st. Do not turn. Work 3 sc into the very last ch at the tip. Now work back along the other side of the foundation chain: sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, tr in next 3 sts, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st. Sl st into the first sc of Row 1 to close. (28 sts around perimeter plus 3 sts at tip)

Round 2

Textured Surface Ch 1. Working in blo, [sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts], sc in all 3 tip sts, [sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts]. Sl st to join. (31 sts)Fasten off. Leave a 10-inch tail for sewing.Wiring: Thread a 3-inch piece of floral wire along the center of the leaf from base to tip, weaving between the two layers. Bend tiny loops at each end using pliers to prevent poking through.

Checkpoint: Each leaf should measure approximately 1.5 inches long and 0.75 inches wide.

Section 6: Forget-Me-Not Accent Flowers

Make 6 in Color A with Color C centers.

Round 1

Using Color A, MR ch 1, work 5 sc into ring, sl st to join to first sc. (5 sts)

Round 2

For each of the 5 sts work the following petal: ch 3, work 3 dc into the same base st, ch 3, sl st into the same base st, then sl st into the next st to advance. Repeat for all 5 petals. (5 petals)Finish by sl st into the starting sc of Round 1.Center Embellishment: Thread Color C onto a tapestry needle. Bring it up through the center and work 3 or 4 small straight stitches radiating from the center. Alternatively, sew a 3 mm seed bead into the center.Fasten off Color A. Leave an 8-inch tail for sewing.

Checkpoint: Each forget-me-not should measure approximately 0.5 inches in diameter.

Assembly, in order

Step 1Individual Motifs: Mix one part liquid starch with two parts water. Dip each piece, squeeze out excess, reshape by hand, and pin to a foam blocking board. Allow 2 to 4 hours to dry completely before assembly.
Step 2Leaves: Pin each leaf stretched to full length with the tip pointed and sides gently curved inward. The wire helps maintain shape after blocking.
Step 3Tulip Buds: Do not submerge stuffed buds. Lightly mist with a spray bottle, reshape by squeezing gently, and air dry.
Step 4Assembled Bracelet: Lightly mist the entire bracelet and reshape on a rounded form like a small jar or rolled towel. Allow to dry in position.

Check these before you start

  • The 0.7 mm elastic cord passes through each pearl bead twice, so confirm the 6 mm beads' holes are large enough before stringing the full bracelet.
  • Keep the puff stitch loop count honest — 3 loops, then 5, then 7 — before the final pull-through; a miscount changes the height of the texture on the outer petals.
  • Use less than 0.25 oz of fiberfill per inner core; overstuffing a 9-round core worked in size 10 thread distorts the tulip shape once it is blocked.
  • Using the size 7 steel hook and size 10 crochet cotton thread: 10 single crochet stitches by 11 rows equals 1 inch (2.5 cm). Check your gauge by making a small circle: work a magic ring, chain 1, work 8 single crochet into the ring, slip stitch to join, then continue in single crochet for several rounds with increases; the circle should measure approximately 1.25 inches in diameter after 8 rounds. Gauge matters here — loose tension creates floppy tulip buds that won't hold their shape, while tight tension makes stuffing difficult. Adjust your hook size as needed.
  • Bracelet circumference (pearl band): approximately 7 inches / 18 cm unstretched, fitting a 6.5 to 7 inch wrist. Total width across the widest point: approximately 3.5 inches / 9 cm. Individual tulip bud height: approximately 1.25 inches / 3.2 cm. Individual leaf length: approximately 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm.
  • All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral unless instructed to join with a slip stitch; work with slightly tighter tension than normal so the fabric stays dense and opaque with no gaps between stitches. When stuffing, use very small amounts of fiberfill — the bud should feel firm but not stretched — and use a bamboo skewer to help push fiberfill into narrow spaces. Leave a 6-inch tail when beginning each motif for weaving in, and a 12-inch tail when finishing motifs that will be sewn together.

On one line

Rounds33
Parts7
LevelIntermediate
Time5-7 hours
Hook1.65 mm
YarnSize 10 Thread

Set-up

  • Wind off Color A (120 yards), Color B (80 yards), and Color C (5 yards) separately so a mid-motif color join is never held up by hunting for thread.
  • Set out 4 to 6 locking stitch markers before starting the inner core — Round 1 is not joined, so a marker is needed from the first stitch onward.
  • Test the size 7 steel hook (1.65 mm) against the given stitch counts on a practice round or two; keep the size 6 steel hook (1.8 mm) nearby if the fabric feels stiff.
  • Read through Petal 1 and Outer Petal 1 before beginning any tulip bud, since both are joined into the marked stitches of the inner core and worked in a set order.

Finishing

  1. Weave in every loose end on the tulip buds, petals, calyx, leaves, and forget-me-nots using the size 24 or 26 tapestry needle before assembly begins.
  2. Block motifs by type: dip leaves and other flat pieces in the starch-water solution and pin to a foam board for 2 to 4 hours; mist stuffed tulip buds instead of submerging them, reshaping by hand as they air dry.
  3. String pearl beads onto the 20-inch elastic cord between assembled motifs, then close the bracelet and secure the knot with jeweler's glue or clear nail polish.

Construction

The inner core is worked in continuous, unjoined rounds with increases spaced progressively wider apart (every stitch, then every second stitch, then every third), the standard spiral shaping used to build a rounded stuffed base without a seam line.

Petal 1 and Outer Petal 1 are both worked flat in turned rows anchored into the marked stitches of the inner core, which layers the inner petals under the outer ones; the front-loop-only setup on Outer Petal 1's first row leaves the back loop free for the puff stitches worked there.

Time per section

Tulip Bud Inner Core (7 buds, 9 rounds each)about 2 to 2.5 hours because seven separate 9-round stuffed cores add up even though each round is quick
Petal 1 and Outer Petal 1 (5 rows plus 7 rows, per bud)about 2 to 3 hours because of the puff-stitch texture row and the shaping decreases worked across two layered petal sets
Calyx, leaves, forget-me-nots, and stringingabout 1.5 to 2 hours because the motifs are small but the bead stringing and gluing on the elastic cord is fiddly

Common questions

Why is the inner core worked in continuous rounds without joining?
Leaving out the join keeps a smooth spiral surface with no seam line, which matters because the core sits visible under the wrapped petals. A marker placed at the start of every round is the only way to track where each round begins without a join stitch to mark it.
Why does Outer Petal 1 work into the front loop only?
The front-loop-only setup leaves the back loop open so the puff stitches have a place to sit, giving the petal ridge its texture after blocking. Working into both loops on that row flattens the puff detail entirely.
Can the stuffed tulip buds be blocked the same way as the flat motifs?
No. The starch-and-water dip is for flat pieces like leaves and calyxes; stuffed buds should be misted with a spray bottle, reshaped by hand, and air dried instead of submerged.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.