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Amigurumi 80 Laid out for paper No account, no download

Crochet a flower monster amigurumi from snout to tail

A flower monster amigurumi plush worked in 54 rounds with an E-4 (3.5mm) hook, snout through tail.

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Crochet a flower monster amigurumi from snout to tail
Amigurumi · Bulky
Skill
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Yarn weight
Bulky
Hook
3.5 mm
Rounds
80

Intermediate

What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Bulky

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

80

Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.

This flower monster amigurumi builds from a single yellow body worked in one continuous spiral, 54 rounds from snout to tail tip, with no joins or turns along the way. Separate pieces — two ears, four flippers, two flat-worked wings, three to four tail petals, large and small flowers, and leaves — are made individually in bright pink, white, green, and light pink, then sewn on at marked round ranges. Have bulky chenille yarn in all five colors, an E-4 (3.5mm) hook, 14mm eyes, polyfill, and a stitch marker ready before starting the snout.

Common mistakes and their fixes

Losing count in the 54-round spiral
Place a stitch marker at the start of each round and move it up as you go, since there's no join or turn to recount from.
Flippers sewn at the wrong round range
Check the round numbers before stitching; front flippers go between rounds 22-25 and back flippers between rounds 32-35, and swapping them changes the proportions.
Wings sewn uneven on the back
Pin both wings in place between rounds 25-31 and compare sides before sewing so the finished pair sits symmetrically.

The materials list

Yarn

  1. Bulky-weight chenille/plush yarn in the following colors:
  2. Yellow (main color) — approx. 40 g
  3. Bright Pink — approx. 12 g
  4. White — approx. 14 g
  5. Green — approx. 7 g
  6. Light Pink — approx. 13 g

Hook

  1. E-4 (3.5 mm)

Safety eyes

  1. 14 mm × 2

Stuffing

  1. Polyfill fiberfill
  2. Stitch markers
  3. Tapestry needle
  4. Scissors

Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.

Key to this pattern, 10 short forms

Ears — Make 2

Work in Yellow, in continuous spiral rounds.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3

(sc, inc) × 6. (18)

Round 4

(2 sc, inc) × 6. (24)

Round 5

Fold piece in half. Working through both layers simultaneously, sc across all sts. (12 joining sts)Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Flippers — Make 4

Work in Yellow, in continuous spiral rounds. Do not stuff the flippers.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3

(sc, inc) × 6. (18)

Rounds 4–6

sc in each st around. (18)

Round 7

(sc, dec) × 6. (12)Do not stuff.

Round 8

Fold piece in half. Working through both layers simultaneously, 6 sc across. (6 joining sts)Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Body — Snout Through Tail

Work in Yellow, in one continuous spiral. Begin at the snout.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3

(sc, inc) × 6. (18)

Round 4

sc in each st around. (18)

Round 5

sc in each st around. (18)The increases in Rnd 6 shape the snout. Position them at the sides and top of the muzzle — use a SM to track symmetry.

Round 6

4 sc, inc, sc, inc, inc, 2 sc, inc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc. (24)

Round 7

(3 sc, inc) × 6. (30)

Round 8

(4 sc, inc) × 6. (36)

Round 9

sc in each st around. (36)Before working Rnd 10, pin both ears in position symmetrically. The sc-joins in Rnd 10 attach them permanently — shift your starting point if needed to align them.

Round 10

13 sc, sc-join through ear, 9 sc, sc-join through ear, 12 sc. (36)

Round 11

(4 sc, dec) × 6. (30)

Round 12

(3 sc, dec) × 6. (24)Install 14 mm safety eyes between Rnds 6 and 7, with 6 sts between them along Rnd 7.Decreases in Rnd 13 fall at the top of the head. Keep them symmetrical.

Round 13

7 sc, dec × 6, 5 sc. (18)Stuff the head firmly now.

Round 14

(sc, dec) × 6. (12)

Round 15

sc in each st around. (12)

Round 16

sc in each st around. (12)

Round 17

sc in each st around. (12)

Round 18

sc in each st around. (12)

Round 19

sc in each st around. (12)

Round 20

sc in each st around. (12)

Round 21

(sc, inc) × 6. (18)

Round 22

(2 sc, inc) × 6. (24)Stuff the neck.Increases in Rnd 23 fall at the sides and top of the body — monitor symmetry carefully.

Round 23

14 sc, inc, sc, inc, inc, 2 sc, inc, inc, sc, inc. (30)

Round 24

(4 sc, inc) × 6. (36)

Round 25

sc in each st around. (36)

Round 26

sc in each st around. (36)

Round 27

sc in each st around. (36)

Round 28

sc in each st around. (36)

Round 29

sc in each st around. (36)

Round 30

sc in each st around. (36)

Round 31

(4 sc, dec) × 6. (30)

Round 32

sc in each st around. (30)

Round 33

(3 sc, dec) × 6. (24)

Round 34

sc in each st around. (24)

Round 35

sc in each st around. (24)

Round 36

(2 sc, dec) × 6. (18)

Round 37

sc in each st around. (18)

Round 38

sc in each st around. (18)

Round 39

sc in each st around. (18)

Round 40

sc in each st around. (18)Stuff the body firmly.

Round 41

(4 sc, dec) × 3. (15)

Round 42

sc in each st around. (15)

Round 43

(3 sc, dec) × 3. (12)

Round 44

sc in each st around. (12)

Round 45

sc in each st around. (12)

Round 46

sc in each st around. (12)Stuff the tail.

Round 47

(2 sc, dec) × 3. (9)

Round 48

sc in each st around. (9)

Round 49

sc in each st around. (9)

Round 50

sc in each st around. (9)

Round 51

(sc, dec) × 3. (6)

Round 52

sc in each st around. (6)

Round 53

sc in each st around. (6)

Round 54

sc in each st around. (6)Add a final bit of stuffing to the tail tip. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Tail Petals — Make 3–4

Work in Bright Pink, in continuous spiral rounds.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

inc in each st around. (12)

Rounds 3–5

sc in each st around. (12)Stuff the piece.

Round 6

dec × 6. (6)

Round 7

Fold in half. Working through both layers, 3 sc across. (3 joining sts)Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Wings — Make 2

Work in White, in flat rows.

Round 1

Ch 13. Starting in 2nd ch from hook: 12 sc, ch 1, turn. (12)

Round 2

Starting in 2nd st: 10 sc, ch 1, turn; 10 sc back, ch 1, turn. (10)

Round 3

Starting in 2nd st: 8 sc, ch 1, turn; 8 sc back, ch 1, turn. (8)

Round 4

Starting in 2nd st: 6 sc, ch 1, turn; 6 sc. (6)Switch to Bright Pink (or your chosen border color). Cut white yarn. Work one round of sc edging around the entire wing. At each corner, work 3 sc into the same stitch to keep the edge smooth. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Large Flowers

Work in Light Pink.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3

(sl st into next st, then into the same st: hdc, dc, ch 1, dc, hdc) × 6.Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Small Flowers

Work in Light Pink.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

Into each st: (sl st, hdc, ch 1, hdc, sl st) × 6.Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Leaves

Work in Green.

Round 1

Ch 7. Starting in 3rd ch from hook: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sl st.Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Assembly, in order

Step 1Flippers: Sew the two front flippers onto the body between Rnds 22 and 25, one on each side. Sew the two back flippers between Rnds 32 and 35.
Step 2Wings: Position both wings symmetrically on the back of the body between Rnds 25 and 31. Sew in place using the long yarn tail and a whipstitch through the border edge.
Step 3Tail Petals: Cluster 3–4 stuffed petals at the tip of the tail and sew each one securely using its yarn tail.
Step 4Leaves: Sew leaves onto the body wherever you plan to place flowers, tucking each leaf slightly under the flower center.
Step 5Flowers: Sew large and small flowers over the leaves, positioning them as you like — across the back, near the neck, or clustered at the tail.
Step 6Weave in all remaining yarn tails.

Check these before you start

  • Chenille/plush yarn is slippery underhook; keep a firm, consistent tension with the E-4 (3.5mm) hook so the 54-round body holds its shape without gaps between stitches.
  • Keep a stitch marker at the start of round 1 of the body and move it up every round; a continuous spiral of this length is easy to lose track of without one.
  • Stuff the body as you go rather than waiting until the end — once the spiral closes at the tail tip, there is no second opening to pack fiberfill through.
  • This pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
  • Gauge is not critical for this project. Tension consistency matters more: work tightly enough that no stuffing is visible through the stitches.

On one line

Rounds80
Parts8
LevelIntermediate
Time4-6 hours
Hook3.5 mm
YarnBulky

Set-up

  • Weigh out yarn to confirm you have at least 40g yellow, 14g white, 13g light pink, 12g bright pink, and 7g green before casting on.
  • Place a stitch marker at round 1 of the body; the piece runs 54 rounds in one spiral with no joins, so losing the marker means losing count.
  • Read through the assembly steps once before starting the small pieces, since flippers, wings, and tail petals attach at specific round ranges on the finished body (22-25, 25-31, 32-35).
  • Set the 14mm eyes aside now and plan to place them while the snout end of the body is still open and unstuffed.

Finishing

  1. Weave in yarn tails from the ears, flippers, wings, tail petals, and leaves before attaching any of them, so loose ends don't get trapped inside the seams.
  2. Attach flippers between rounds 22-25 for the front pair and rounds 32-35 for the back pair, then position both wings between rounds 25-31 and whipstitch through the border edge using the long tail.
  3. Cluster and sew the 3-4 stuffed tail petals at the tip of the tail, then sew leaves onto the body wherever you've planned your flower placements.

Construction

The body increases steadily at the snout (6 to 12 to 18 stitches by round 3) before leveling off, giving the rounded snout its shape before the straight sides of the spiral begin.

Wings are worked flat in short rows (starting at Ch 13 and tapering down to 6 stitches over 4 rows) rather than in the round, producing a flat piece that lies against the back of the body instead of a dimensional one.

Time per section

Body — snout through tailabout 2-3 hours, because the piece runs 54 rounds in one continuous spiral with steady stitch counts to track.
Small pieces — ears, flippers, wings, tail petalsabout 1 to 1.5 hours, because each piece is short on its own but there are many of them to make and finish.
Assembly — flippers, wings, tail petals, leavesabout 45 minutes to 1 hour, because each piece attaches at a specific round range and needs careful placement for symmetry.

Photographs of this one

Every one was taken by whoever published the pattern, in the order the source listed them.

Crochet a flower monster amigurumi from snout to tail — photo 2
Crochet a flower monster amigurumi from snout to tail — photo 3

Common questions

Why is the body worked in one continuous piece instead of separate parts?
The snout-through-tail body is built as a single 54-round spiral so there's no seam to sew along the torso. This keeps the shaping continuous and avoids a visible join line down the body.
Why are the wings worked flat instead of in the round?
Flat rows let each wing taper from 12 stitches down to 6 over four rows, producing a flat shape that lies naturally against the back. Working it in the round would give a dimensional piece that wouldn't sit flush.
How many flowers and leaves does this pattern need?
The pattern doesn't fix a count for leaves or large flowers; they're sewn onto the body wherever you plan a flower placement, so the number depends on your layout. Tail petals are fixed at 3-4 clustered at the tip.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.