Intermediate
What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.
Shawls & Wraps 6 Laid out for paper No account, no download
Ocean blue granny stitch shawl with pockets pattern
Teal granny-stitch shawl, 120 rows, 6.0mm hook, with attached pockets and fringe.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Time
- 6-9 hours
- Yarn weight
- Worsted
- Hook
- 6.0 mm
- Rounds
- 6
Worsted
What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.
6
Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.
This shawl starts as a long rectangle built row by row in a classic granny stitch, worked flat from a 62-chain foundation up to 120 rows until the panel measures about 70 inches. A second, smaller panel worked the same way from a 26-chain foundation becomes the pocket, positioned and sewn onto the body once both pieces are off the hook. A border finishes the raw edges, and fringe is cut, attached, and trimmed last. Have your full yarn put up, a 6.0 mm hook, and a yarn needle ready before you chain on.
Skill level: Easy to Intermediate. If you can make a basic granny square, you have the skills needed since the main body and pockets use the same stitch pattern throughout; seaming and fringe are straightforward finishing steps. Finished measurements: approximately 70 inches long without fringe, about 18 inches wide, with fringe adding roughly 6 inches. Each pocket measures approximately 7 inches wide by 8 inches tall.
Common mistakes and their fixes
- Miscounting clusters on Row 1
- Check your count against the stated 60 stitches (24 for the pocket) at the end of Row 1 before turning. A cluster skipped or doubled here throws off every row that follows.
- Placing 3-dc into the wrong spot
- Work each 3-dc group into the chain-space or gap between clusters, not into a skipped stitch. This is the most common cause of a wavy edge over 120 rows.
- Attaching the pocket without marking it first
- Use stitch markers to set the pocket's position before sewing. Sewing by eye tends to drift off-center across a 70-inch panel.
The materials list
- Yarn
Weight
- Medium weight (Category 4, also called worsted weight)
Quantity
- Approximately 900 to 1000 yards total
Suggested yarn
- Any soft acrylic or acrylic blend in your preferred color
Color shown
- Deep teal blue
- The yarn in the photo appears to be a smooth, plied acrylic with a slight sheen. Look for something that feels soft against your skin since this will drape around your neck and shoulders. Avoid anything scratchy or stiff.
- Hook
Size
- 6.0 mm (US J/10)
- You may need to adjust your hook size to match gauge. More on that below.
- Notions
- Yarn needle for weaving ends and seaming
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Stitch markers (optional but helpful)
- Gauge
- 14 stitches and 7 rows = 4 inches in granny stitch pattern
- To check your gauge, work the first few rows of the main panel. Measure your width. If your fabric is too tight, go up a hook size. If it is too loose, go down a hook size.
Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.
Key to this pattern, 10 short forms
Foundation Row
Ch 62.
Row 1
Dc in 4th ch from hook (the skipped chains count as your first dc). Dc in next ch. *Sk 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch.* Repeat from * to * across until 3 ch remain. Sk 2 ch, 3 dc in last ch. Turn. (60 sts)
Row 2
Ch 3 (counts as first dc). 2 dc in same st. *Sk 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-sp or gap between clusters.* Repeat from * to * across. End with 3 dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (60 sts)
Rows 3 through 120: Repeat Row 2. Your panel should measure approximately 70 inches long when complete. If you want a longer or shorter shawl, add or subtract rows here. Each row adds roughly half an inch to your length.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends.
Border for Main Body
A simple border cleans up the edges and gives the shawl a finished look.
Round 1
Join yarn at any corner with a sl st. Ch 1. Work sc evenly around the entire rectangle. Work 3 sc in each corner to help the fabric lie flat. Join with sl st to first sc.
Round 2
Ch 1. Sc in each st around, working 3 sc in each corner st. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
This border is optional but recommended. It stabilizes the edges and creates a neat frame for the fringe.
Foundation Row
Ch 26.
Row 1
Dc in 4th ch from hook. Dc in next ch. *Sk 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch.* Repeat from * to * across until 3 ch remain. Sk 2 ch, 3 dc in last ch. Turn. (24 sts)
Row 2
Ch 3. 2 dc in same st. *Sk 3 dc, 3 dc in next gap.* Repeat from * to * across. End with 3 dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (24 sts)Rows 3 through 14: Repeat Row 2.
Pocket Border
Work 1 round of sc evenly around all four sides of the pocket square. Work 3 sc in each corner. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
Your pocket should measure approximately 7 inches wide and 8 inches tall. Make a second pocket identical to the first.
Positioning the pockets
1. Lay your main shawl body flat on a table or bed.
2. Find the center of each short end.
3. Position one pocket about 2 inches up from the bottom edge, centered horizontally.
4. Pin in place if desired.
Attaching the pockets
Using your yarn needle and matching yarn, whip stitch the pocket to the shawl body along the bottom and two sides. Leave the top edge open so you can actually use the pocket.
Whip stitch how-to:
Thread your needle with about 24 inches of yarn. Working from the wrong side, insert needle through one edge stitch of the pocket and the corresponding stitch on the shawl body. Pull through. Insert needle through the next stitch on each piece. Continue along the entire edge, keeping your stitches even and snug but not tight.
Repeat for the second pocket on the opposite end of the shawl.
Cutting your fringe
Cut strands of yarn approximately 14 inches long. You will need about 80 to 100 strands for each end, depending on how full you want your fringe.
Attaching fringe
1. Take 2 strands and fold them in half.
2. Insert your crochet hook through the edge stitch from front to back.
3. Grab the folded loop with your hook and pull it through the edge, creating a small loop on the front side.
4. Pull the loose ends through this loop.
5. Tug firmly to tighten the knot.
6. Repeat across the entire bottom edge, spacing fringe bundles about half an inch apart.
7. Repeat on the opposite end of the shawl.
Trimming
Once all fringe is attached, lay the shawl flat and trim the ends so they are even. A rotary cutter and mat work great for this, but sharp scissors work fine too.
Check these before you start
- Gauge matters for this project because it affects the final drape and size: a too-tight fabric will feel stiff, and a too-loose fabric may stretch out of shape. Check your gauge (14 stitches and 7 rows = 4 inches) before committing to the full 120-row panel.
- Keep tension even across the full width of each row. Granny stitch rows that tighten or loosen partway through show up as a wavy edge once the panel is off the hook.
- Mark the pocket panel's intended position on the body panel with stitch markers before you pick up yarn to attach it. Pinning by eye after blocking is harder to correct.
- The main body is worked flat in rows, turning at the end of each row.
- Chain 3 at the beginning of a row counts as your first double crochet unless otherwise noted.
- Work all clusters into chain spaces, not into individual stitches. This is key to getting the granny stitch look right.
- The pockets are worked separately and sewn on at the end.
- Fringe is added last along both short ends of the shawl.
- Do not cut your yarn between sections if you can avoid it. This reduces ends to weave in later.
On one line
| Rounds | 6 |
|---|---|
| Parts | 9 |
| Level | Intermediate |
| Time | 6-9 hours |
| Hook | 6.0 mm |
| Yarn | Worsted |
Set-up
- Confirm you have 900 to 1000 yards of medium weight yarn wound and ready; running short mid-panel means re-matching dye lots on a visible piece.
- Work a swatch of the first few rows and measure: 14 stitches and 7 rows should equal 4 inches. Change hook size before you commit to Row 1 of the 62-chain foundation.
- Read Row 2 of the foundation section before you start repeating it. It introduces the chain-space and gap pattern that every following row depends on.
- Set aside stitch markers now. You will want them later to mark where the pocket panel lands on the body before you sew it on.
Finishing
- Weave in all remaining ends using your yarn needle. Work the tail through several stitches on the wrong side, then double back in a different direction. This locks the end in place so it won't work loose with wear and washing.
- Wet blocking opens up the granny stitch pattern and evens out your stitches. Soak your finished shawl in cool water for 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on a towel or blocking mat. Smooth into shape. Pin if needed.
Construction
Each row's 3-dc clusters are worked into the chain-space or gap left between the previous row's clusters, not into the stitches themselves; this offset is what produces the granny stitch texture rather than a solid fabric.
The pocket is built as its own flat panel from a separate 26-chain foundation rather than worked into the body panel directly, which lets you position it on the finished body before attaching it.
Time per section
| Main body panel | about 4 to 5 hours, because 120 rows of granny stitch at this gauge take the longest stretch of the project |
|---|---|
| Pocket panel | about 45 minutes, because it is only 14 rows from a 26-chain foundation |
| Border, pocket attachment, and fringe | about 1.5 to 2 hours, because positioning and sewing the pocket, then cutting and attaching fringe, both take careful, slow work |
Common questions
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.