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Victorian lace peplum cardigan in cream cotton

Fitted lace cardigan: 8-round ribbing, diamond mesh yoke, pineapple sleeves, E-4/F-5 hooks.

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Victorian lace peplum cardigan in cream cotton
Cardigans · DK
Skill
Intermediate
Time
Several weekend sessions
Yarn weight
DK
Hook
3.5 mm
Rounds
30

Intermediate

What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.

DK

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

30

Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.

Fitted lace cardigan: 8-round ribbing, diamond mesh yoke, pineapple sleeves, E-4/F-5 hooks.

Common mistakes and their fixes

Losing the BLO ribbing texture
Working into both loops instead of back loop only flattens the ribbed structure at the waist. Check your stitch count and the 22-by-24 gauge over 4 inches as you go to confirm the rib is still forming correctly.
Miscounting the waist increase repeat
The Waist Shaping Increase Row spaces increases at a set stitch interval that changes by size. Count the repeat in brackets carefully before working it, since an off-count row will not match the stitch total the mesh section expects.

The materials list

Main yarn

  1. 100% mercerized cotton, DK weight (CYCA 3 Light), approximately 1,500 (1,650, 1,800, 1,950) yards / 1,372 (1,509, 1,646, 1,784) meters in cream or natural ecru.
  2. Option 1: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. 100% cotton, 273 yards / 250 meters per 100 g skein. This yarn has excellent stitch definition and a slight sheen that mimics the mercerized look in the finished garment. Purchase 6 (6, 7, 8) skeins in Champagne White or Vanilla Cream.
  3. Option 2: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in DK weight. 100% mercerized cotton, 186 yards / 170 meters per 3.5 oz / 100 g skein. Widely available, consistent tension, and comes in Natural. Purchase 9 (9, 10, 11) skeins.
  4. Option 3: Drops Safran. 100% Egyptian cotton, 175 yards / 160 meters per 50 g skein. Fine gauge with beautiful drape. Purchase 9 (10, 11, 12) skeins in Off White (color 17).

Substitution Note

  1. Choose a smooth, tightly plied cotton or cotton blend DK yarn with good stitch definition. Avoid hairy or fuzzy fibers, as they will obscure the lace textures. If substituting with a linen cotton blend, expect a slightly stiffer hand that will soften considerably after washing and blocking. Always swatch in both stitch patterns before committing to a substitute.
  1. US size E-4 / 3.5 mm for bodice ribbing and solid sections.
  2. US size F-5 / 3.75 mm for mesh and lace sections and sleeves.
  1. Five 5/8 inch / 16 mm gold shank buttons
  2. Yarn needle for seaming and weaving ends
  3. Stitch markers, at least 12
  4. Rust-proof pins for blocking
  5. Blocking mats and spray bottle or basin
  6. Measuring tape
  7. Small scissors

Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.

Key to this pattern, 27 short forms

Back Panel Ribbing Section (Lower Torso)

Round 1

(RS): Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc in each st across. (94, 102, 110, 118 sc)

Round 2

(WS): Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc in each st across. (94, 102, 110, 118 sc)

Round 3

through 10: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 four more times. (94, 102, 110, 118 sc after each row)After Row 10, the ribbing section measures approximately 1.75 inches / 4.5 cm tall. This is the narrowest point that will sit at the natural waist.Waist Shaping Increase Row (RS): Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc in first 9 (10, 11, 12) sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 9 (10, 11, 12) sts, 2 sc in next st] 8 times, sc in rem sts. (103, 111, 119, 127 sc)

Round 12

Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc across. (103, 111, 119, 127 sc)

Round 13

Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc across. (103, 111, 119, 127 sc)

Round 14

Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc across. (103, 111, 119, 127 sc)

Round 15

Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc across. (103, 111, 119, 127 sc)

Round 16

Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc across. (103, 111, 119, 127 sc) Checkpoint: After Row 16, the back panel should measure approximately 3.25 inches / 8.5 cm tall from the foundation row. The width at the widest point of the ribbing section should be approximately 18.75 (20.25, 21.75, 23.25) inches / 47.5 (51.5, 55, 59) cm when gently stretched to working width.

Right Front Ribbing Section

Round 1

(RS): Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc across. (47, 51, 55, 59 sc)

Round 2

through 10: Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc across. (47, 51, 55, 59 sc) Waist Increase Row (RS): Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc in first 9 (10, 11, 12) sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 9 (10, 11, 12) sts, 2 sc in next st] 4 times, sc in rem sts. (52, 56, 60, 64 sc)

Round 12

through 16: Ch 1, turn. BLO sc across. (52, 56, 60, 64 sc)

Sleeve Cuff Foundation

Using E-4 hook, work 54 (54, 60, 60) fsc.

Cuff Ribbing Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, sc across. (54, 54, 60, 60 sc)

Round 2

through 8: Ch 1, turn. BLO sc across. (54, 54, 60, 60 sc) Checkpoint: After Row 8, the cuff ribbing measures approximately 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm.

Right Front Mesh Section

Switch to F-5 hook.

Round 17

(RS): Ch 5, turn. Skip first 3 sts, dc in next st, [ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in next st] across.Size S: (18 dc posts, 17 ch-2 sp)Size M: (19 dc posts, 18 ch-2 sp)Size L: (20 dc posts, 19 ch-2 sp)Size XL: (22 dc posts, 21 ch-2 sp)

Round 18

(WS): Ch 5, turn. Dc in first ch-2 sp, [ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp] across, ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5. (same dc post counts)Rows 17 through 22: Work 6 rows of diamond mesh same as back.

Round 23

(Transition, RS): Ch 6, turn. Skip first ch-2 sp, dc in next dc post, [ch 3, dc in next dc post] across. (same dc post counts)

Round 24

through 32 (WS and RS alternating): Work wide mesh (ch-3 spaces) same as back. Maintain dc post counts.

Back Panel Yoke Transition

The yoke uses a wider open mesh where ch-3 spaces replace ch-2 spaces, creating a slightly more open grid that matches the upper chest texture visible in the finished garment.

Round 23

RS, Transition Row Ch 6 (counts as dc plus ch 3), turn. Skip first ch-2 sp, dc in next dc post, [ch 3, dc in next dc post] across. (same dc post count as mesh section)

Round 24

(WS): Ch 6, turn. Dc in first ch-3 sp, [ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp] across, ch 3, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-6. (same dc post count)Rows 24 through 32 (9 yoke rows total including Row 23): Work Row 24 pattern throughout.Checkpoint: After Row 32, the back panel from foundation to current row should measure approximately 8 inches / 20.5 cm tall. The piece is now at the armhole shaping point.

Back Armhole Shaping

Round 33

RS, Armhole Shaping Sl st across first 2 dc posts and into the 3rd dc post, ch 6, work wide mesh across until 2 dc posts remain at end of row, turn, leaving last 2 dc posts unworked.Size S: (31 dc posts)Size M: (34 dc posts)Size L: (36 dc posts)Size XL: (39 dc posts)

Round 34

(WS): Ch 6, turn. Work wide mesh across, dc into 3rd ch of beg ch-6. (same counts as Row 33)

Round 35

(RS): Ch 6, turn. Skip first ch-3 sp, sl st into first dc post, ch 6, work wide mesh across until last dc post, turn, leaving final post unworked.Size S: (29 dc posts)Size M: (32 dc posts)Size L: (34 dc posts)Size XL: (37 dc posts)Row 36 (WS): Ch 6, turn. Work wide mesh even. (same counts as Row 35)Rows 37 through 44 (even armhole rows): Work wide mesh even, no further shaping.Size S: (29 dc posts per row)Size M: (32 dc posts per row)Size L: (34 dc posts per row)Size XL: (37 dc posts per row)Checkpoint: After Row 44, the armhole opening measures approximately 4.5 inches / 11.5 cm. The back panel above the armhole shaping should measure approximately 12.5 inches / 32 cm total height from foundation.

Right Front Armhole Shaping

Round 33

RS, Armhole Edge Sl st across first 2 dc posts, into 3rd dc post, ch 6, work wide mesh across to end (center front edge has no shaping here).Size S: (16 dc posts)Size M: (17 dc posts)Size L: (18 dc posts)Size XL: (20 dc posts)Row 34 (WS): Ch 6, turn. Work wide mesh even. (same counts)

Round 35

(RS): Sl st into first dc post, ch 6, work wide mesh across to end.Size S: (15 dc posts)Size M: (16 dc posts)Size L: (17 dc posts)Size XL: (19 dc posts)Row 36 (WS): Ch 6, turn. Work wide mesh even.Rows 37 through 44: Work wide mesh even, no shaping. (same counts as Row 35)

Back Shoulder Shaping and Neck

Round 45

RS, Right Shoulder Work wide mesh across first 8 (9, 10, 11) dc posts only, turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. (8, 9, 10, 11 dc posts)

Round 46

(WS): Ch 6, turn. Work wide mesh across 8 (9, 10, 11) dc posts. Fasten off. With RS facing, skip the center 13 (14, 14, 15) dc posts for the back neck opening. Rejoin yarn to the next dc post for the left shoulder.

Round 45

L (RS, Left Shoulder): Ch 6, work wide mesh across remaining 8 (9, 10, 11) dc posts. (8, 9, 10, 11 dc posts)Row 46L (WS): Ch 6, turn. Work wide mesh across. Fasten off.

Right Front Neck Shaping

Round 45

RS, Neck Decrease Sl st into first 3 dc posts, ch 6, work wide mesh to end.Size S: (13 dc posts)Size M: (14 dc posts)Size L: (15 dc posts)Size XL: (17 dc posts)

Round 46

(WS): Ch 6, turn. Work wide mesh, stopping 1 dc post before neck edge, turn.Size S: (12 dc posts)Size M: (13 dc posts)Size L: (14 dc posts)Size XL: (16 dc posts)

Round 47

(RS): Sl st into first dc post, ch 6, work wide mesh to end.Size S: (11 dc posts)Size M: (12 dc posts)Size L: (13 dc posts)Size XL: (15 dc posts)

Round 48

(WS): Work wide mesh even across remaining dc posts. Shoulder rows (Row 49 through Row 50): Work wide mesh even. Fasten off.Shoulder dc post counts after neck shaping: Size S: (8 dc posts)Size M: (9 dc posts)Size L: (10 dc posts)Size XL: (11 dc posts)Buttonhole Placement: Mark the positions of 5 buttonholes evenly spaced along the center front edge before working the button band. The lowest buttonhole sits 1 inch / 2.5 cm above the waist increase row. The highest buttonhole sits 0.75 inch / 2 cm below the start of the neck shaping. Space the remaining 3 evenly between these two marks.

Back Panel

The back is worked from the lower torso upward. The lower section is BLO single crochet ribbing, the mid-section is diamond mesh, and the upper yoke is wider open mesh.

Using E-4 hook, work 94 (102, 110, 118) fsc. This foundation row serves as both the foundation chain and the first row of sc.

Back Panel Transition to Mesh (Middle Bodice)

Switch to F-5 hook.

The diamond mesh repeat used here is: [dc in st, ch 2, skip 2 sts] across, ending dc in last st.

Row A (RS): Ch 5 (counts as dc plus ch 2), turn. Skip first 3 sts, dc in next st, [ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in next st] across to last 0 (0, 0, 0) sts. Turn.

For size S (103 sts): Row A produces 35 dc and 34 ch-2 spaces. (35 dc, 34 ch-2 sp)

For size M (111 sts): (38 dc, 37 ch-2 sp)

For size L (119 sts): (40 dc, 39 ch-2 sp)

For size XL (127 sts): (43 dc, 42 ch-2 sp)

Row B (WS): Ch 5, turn. Dc in first ch-2 sp, [ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp] across, ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of beginning ch-5. Rep Row B for mesh section. (same mesh counts as Row A)

Rows 17 through 22 (6 mesh rows total): Work Rows A and B alternately. Maintain established mesh counts throughout.

After Row 22, the mesh middle section measures approximately 2.25 inches / 5.75 cm.

Right Front Panel

The right front is half the width of the back at each section, with a vertical straight edge at center front where the button band will be added.

Using E-4 hook, work 47 (51, 55, 59) fsc.

Left Front Panel

Work exactly as Right Front Panel, reversing all shaping: armhole shaping is worked at the end of RS rows and beginning of WS rows; neck shaping is worked at the beginning of RS rows and end of WS rows. No buttonholes are worked on the left front.

Sleeves (Make 2)

The sleeves are worked flat from cuff upward. The lower sleeve features pineapple motifs, the mid-sleeve is dense sc, and the upper sleeve is plain mesh.

Sleeve Pineapple Motif Section

Switch to F-5 hook.

Pineapple Setup Row (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn. Dc in next 2 sts, [ch 3, skip 3 sts, sc in next st, ch 3, skip 3 sts, work 7 dc in next st (fan base), skip 3 sts] 4 times, ch 3, skip 3, sc in next st, ch 3, dc in last 3 sts.

Pineapple Row 1 (WS): Ch 3, turn. Dc in next 2 sts, [ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in each of 7 dc] repeat across, ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in last 3 sts.

Pineapple Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, turn. Dc in next 2 sts, [ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, skip 1 dc, dc in next 5 dc] repeat across, ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in last 3 sts.

Pineapple Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, turn. Dc in next 2 sts, [ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, skip 1 dc, dc in next 3 dc] repeat across, ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in last 3 sts.

Pineapple Row 4 (RS): Ch 3, turn. Dc in next 2 sts, [ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, skip 1 dc, pc in center dc] repeat across, ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in last 3 sts.

Pineapple Row 5 (WS): Ch 3, turn. Dc in next 2 sts, [ch 5, pc at top of pineapple cluster (work pc into the ch-1 closing space of the cluster), ch 5] repeat across, dc in last 3 sts.

Pineapple Row 6 (RS): Ch 3, turn. Dc in next 2 sts, [ch 3, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 3, sc in top of pc, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3] repeat across, dc in last 3 sts.

Pineapple Row 7 (WS, Fan Reset): Ch 3, turn. Dc in next 2 sts, [ch 3, skip ch-3 sp, 7 dc in sc at center of pineapple tip row] repeat across, dc in last 3 sts.

Repeat Pineapple Rows 1 through 7 once more for the second full pineapple repeat.

Sleeve Increase Section

Switch to E-4 hook.

Close-out Row (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc across the top of the last pineapple row, working 1 sc into each dc and 2 sc into each ch-3 sp.

Size S and M: (54 sc)

Size L and XL: (60 sc)

Increase Row: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. (adds 2 sts)

Work 1 plain row between each increase row (Ch 1, turn, BLO sc across).

Repeat Increase Row and plain row alternately until sleeve reaches: Size S: Work 10 increase rows. (74 sc)

Size M: Work 10 increase rows. (74 sc)

Size L: Work 10 increase rows. (80 sc)

Size XL: Work 10 increase rows. (80 sc)

Sleeve Cap Shaping

Switch to F-5 hook.

Conversion Row (RS): Ch 5 (counts as dc plus ch 2), turn. Skip 3 sts, dc in next st, [ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in next st] across.

Size S: (25 dc posts, 24 ch-2 sp)

Size M: (25 dc posts, 24 ch-2 sp)

Size L: (27 dc posts, 26 ch-2 sp)

Size XL: (27 dc posts, 26 ch-2 sp)

Cap Decrease Row 1 (WS): Sl st into first ch-2 sp and first dc post, ch 5, work mesh across until last dc post, turn, leaving last dc post unworked.

Size S and M: (23 dc posts)

Size L and XL: (25 dc posts)

Cap Decrease Row 2 (RS): Same as Decrease Row 1. (21 dc posts / 23 dc posts)

Cap Decrease Row 3 (WS): Same. (19 dc posts / 21 dc posts)

Cap Decrease Row 4 (RS): Same. (17 dc posts / 19 dc posts)

Cap Decrease Row 5 (WS): Same. (15 dc posts / 17 dc posts)

**Cap Decrease Row 6

Check these before you start

  • Keep the E-4/3.5mm hook for ribbing and solid sections separate from the F-5/3.75mm hook used for mesh, lace, and sleeves; swapping them at the wrong round changes both gauge and drape.
  • Every ribbing row is worked in BLO (back loop only); check your row gauge against 22 stitches by 24 rows per 4 inches, blocked, periodically rather than only at the swatch stage.
  • The five gold shank buttons are 5/8 inch/16mm; buy exactly that size, since a larger or smaller shank will not sit flush against the dense ribbed front band.

On one line

Rounds30
Parts17
LevelIntermediate
TimeSeveral weekend sessions
Hook3.5 mm
YarnDK

Set-up

  • Confirm total yardage against your size before winding the first skein: 1,500 to 1,950 yards depending on size S through XL.
  • Swatch in both stitch patterns, not one: the BLO single crochet ribbing on an E-4 hook and the diamond mesh on an F-5 hook, since each governs a different part of the fit.
  • Read through the Waist Shaping Increase Row on the Back Panel Ribbing Section before you start Row 1, so you know where the increase stitches land relative to the plain ribbing rows above it.
  • Set out at least 12 stitch markers and sort them by use before casting on, since armhole shaping, neck shaping, and mesh transitions all happen within single pieces and are easy to lose track of without markers placed ahead of time.

Finishing

  1. Weave in ends on each of the five pieces, back panel, both fronts, and both sleeves, before blocking so no loose tails get trapped in a seam.
  2. Block each piece individually with rust-proof pins on blocking mats, spraying or wetting as needed to open the diamond mesh yoke and the pineapple motifs on the sleeves.
  3. Seam the back panel to both front panels and set in the sleeves, then apply the ruffle trim at the shoulders, sleeve cuffs, and front band, and sew the five gold shank buttons to close the center front.

Construction

The Waist Shaping Increase Row falls only after 10 rows of plain BLO ribbing, once the back panel measures approximately 1.75 inches tall; the increase lands at the narrowest point of the torso rather than being distributed through the ribbing itself, so the rib stays a constant stitch count until that single row.

Each of the five pieces, back, two fronts, two sleeves, is worked flat in rows rather than in the round, which is why ribbing sections alternate RS and WS rows with a ch-1 turn at the start of each; the pieces only come together later through seaming, after all shaping and the pineapple motifs are complete.

Time per section

Back Panel Ribbing Sectionabout 1 to 1.5 hours, because it runs 8 rounds plus the Waist Shaping Increase Row before the rib settles into its finished width
Right Front Mesh Sectionabout 45 minutes to an hour, because reading the diamond mesh repeat for the first time on the F-5 hook slows the first few rounds
Right Front Neck Shapingabout 30 to 45 minutes, because it covers 4 rounds of shaping that need careful stitch counting at each decrease point

Common questions

Can you use a different cotton yarn than the three options listed?
Yes, as long as it is a smooth, tightly plied cotton or cotton blend DK yarn with good stitch definition; avoid hairy or fuzzy fibers, since they will obscure the diamond mesh and pineapple motifs. Swatch in both the single crochet ribbing and the mesh pattern before buying full yardage.
How do you know the ribbing is the right length before moving on?
After Row 10 the back panel ribbing should measure approximately 1.75 inches/4.5cm, and the sleeve cuff ribbing should measure approximately 1.5 inches/3.8cm after Row 8. Check both against a measuring tape before starting the next section.
Why does this pattern call for two different hook sizes?
The E-4/3.5mm hook keeps the bodice ribbing and solid sections dense and structured, while the F-5/3.75mm hook opens the diamond mesh yoke and pineapple sleeve motifs so the lace reads clearly. Using only one hook throughout will make either the ribbing too loose or the lace too tight.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.