Intermediate
What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.
Bags 4 Laid out for paper No account, no download
Bobble Stitch Textured Handbag Crochet Pattern
Structured bobble-stitch handbag, 92-st body, cream trim, 3.5 mm hook, worked flat and in rounds.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Time
- 4-6 hours
- Yarn weight
- Worsted
- Hook
- 3.5 mm
- Rounds
- 4
Worsted
What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.
4
Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.
This handbag starts as a flat rectangle, then turns into a box with a bobble-textured body, a matching flap, and a cream contrast border. The base works up in rows, the walls work up in rounds with corner increases, and the flap continues flat off the back panel before closing with a metal clasp and two D-rings. Have coral and cream cotton yarn, a 3.5 mm hook, stitch markers, and a yarn needle ready, along with fabric lining if you plan to finish the interior.
Common mistakes and their fixes
- Missing a corner increase
- Count the full perimeter after the setup round and confirm you have 92 stitches before starting the bobble rounds.
- Losing the bobble rhythm
- Move your stitch marker up at the start of every round and count sc-plus-bobble pairs at the end of each one until the pattern feels automatic.
- Attaching the clasp too soon
- Test the flap closure against the clasp several times first so the hardware lines up naturally before you sew it on for good.
The materials list
Yarn
- DK/Worsted weight cotton yarn in Coral: 220 to 260 yards for the main body
- DK/Worsted weight cotton yarn in Cream: 60 to 80 yards for the trim and handle
Tools
- 3.5 mm crochet hook (US E/4)
- Yarn needle for weaving ends
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
Hardware
- Metal clasp closure
- 2 D-rings for handle attachment
Optional
- fabric lining
- Cotton yarn works best for bags because it holds its shape and doesn’t stretch out over time. A cotton blend would work too, but avoid anything too soft or slippery.
Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.
Key to this pattern, 7 short forms
The Base
The base forms the bottom of your handbag and creates the foundation for everything else.
Foundation: Chain 37.
Round 1
Single crochet in the 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. (36 sts)
Round 2
through 10: Single crochet in each stitch across. (36 sts) At the end of Row 10, you should have a neat rectangle. This is your bag bottom.
Building the Body
Now you’ll work around the entire base rectangle to create the bag walls.
Setting up the round: Work around the rectangle, increasing 3 single crochet stitches in each corner. You’re establishing 92 stitches around the entire perimeter.
To do this, work across the long edge (36 sts), then 3 sc in the corner stitch, work up the short edge, 3 sc in the next corner, across the second long edge (36 sts), 3 sc in the corner, up the remaining short edge, and 3 sc in the final corner. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your round.
Round 1
through 16: Work in the bobble pattern, alternating with single crochet support rounds.For the bobble rounds, you’ll work: *sc in first stitch, bobble in next stitch* and repeat around. The support rounds are simply single crochet in every stitch.
Checkpoint: After completing the 16 rounds, your bag body should measure approximately 15.5 cm (6.1 inches) in height. If you’re significantly off, check your gauge and tension.
Creating the Flap
The flap extends from the back panel and folds over to close with the clasp.
Work across 36 stitches on the back panel only. You’ll now be working in rows rather than rounds.
Round 1
through 14: Continue in bobble texture stitch, maintaining 36 stitches in each row.Border: Join cream yarn and work 1 round of single crochet around the entire flap edge. This creates that beautiful contrast trim you see in the photos.
Making the Handle
The handle is worked separately, then attached to the D-rings.
Foundation: Chain 61 with cream yarn.
Work 60 single crochet stitches around the chain, creating a tube shape. Some crocheters like to work over a cord or rope core for extra sturdiness. This is optional but recommended if you plan to carry heavier items.
Attach each end of the handle securely to your D-rings.
Assembly, in order
Step 1Blocking: Give your finished bag a light steam block to even out the stitches. Don’t press directly on the bobbles or you’ll flatten that gorgeous texture.
Step 2Lining (optional): For a more polished interior and added structure, cut fabric to fit inside the bag and hand stitch it in place. This also prevents items from poking through the crochet fabric.
Check these before you start
- Keep your tension slightly tighter than usual through the body and flap; a looser gauge leaves gaps between bobbles and lets the bag lose its shape.
- Count stitches at the end of every bobble round until the sc-then-bobble rhythm feels automatic, since a single skipped stitch shifts the whole pattern.
- Practice a few bobble stitches on scrap yarn before the first body round so the bumps come out even once you're working on the bag itself.
On one line
| Rounds | 4 |
|---|---|
| Parts | 4 |
| Level | Intermediate |
| Time | 4-6 hours |
| Hook | 3.5 mm |
| Yarn | Worsted |
Set-up
- Work a gauge swatch in single crochet and check it against 18 sts x 20 rows = 4 inches before casting on the base chain.
- Set aside enough coral yarn for the body (220 to 260 yards) and cream yarn for the trim and handle (60 to 80 yards) so you don't run short mid-round.
- Read through the Building the Body setup round once before starting it, since the 3-sc corner increases happen in a single pass around the rectangle.
- Have a stitch marker on hand to place at the start of the body rounds, since you'll be moving it up through all 16 rounds.
Finishing
- Weave in all yarn ends with a yarn needle, including the ends from the cream border round on the flap.
- Test the flap closure against the clasp a few times to confirm it lines up naturally before attaching the hardware permanently.
- Give the finished bag a light steam block to even out the stitches, keeping the iron away from the bobbles so the texture stays raised.
Construction
The flap is worked flat over 36 stitches on the back panel only, breaking out of the round construction used for the body, which lets it extend upward and fold forward to meet the clasp.
Time per section
| The Base | about 45 minutes because it's 10 straight rows of single crochet across 36 stitches |
|---|---|
| Building the Body | about 2 to 3 hours because of 16 rounds alternating bobble and single crochet across 92 stitches, plus tracking the corner increases |
| Creating the Flap and finishing | about 1 to 1.5 hours because of 14 bobble rows, the cream border round, and attaching the clasp and D-rings |
Common questions
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.