Intermediate
What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.
Bags 11 Laid out for paper No account, no download
Crochet Envelope Crossbody Bag with Tassel Trim
A crossbody bag in 3 parts: body, flap, tassels. Worked flat with a 5.0mm hook.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Time
- 4-6 hours
- Yarn weight
- Worsted
- Hook
- 5.0 mm
- Rounds
- 11
Worsted
What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.
11
Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.
This crossbody bag is built from three separate pieces worked flat in single crochet, then seamed together: a rectangular body of 35 stitches across 56 rows, a triangular envelope flap shaped with diagonal decreases, and eight small tasseled toppers made in the round. Before picking up a hook, have 250 to 300 yards of worsted weight cotton on hand, a 5.0 mm hook, a magnetic snap, and a scrap of cardboard for wrapping the tassel fringe. Every row of the body and most of the flap uses the same stitch, so the work is repetitive rather than technical.
Common mistakes and their fixes
- Losing count on the 56-row rectangle
- Mark every tenth row with a locking stitch marker along the edge so a miscount surfaces within ten rows instead of at the end.
- Flap point comes out off-center
- Check the stitch count at the end of each decrease row against the pattern before moving on; the diagonal shaping only reads correctly if each row lands on the expected number.
- Magic ring gap in tassel toppers
- Pull the tail firmly to close the ring before starting Round 1, and check that all 6 stitches sit tight before increasing to 12.
The materials list
Yarn
- Approximately 250 to 300 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn (weight category 4)
Suggested brands
- Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, or similar
Hook
- 5.0 mm (US H/8) crochet hook for main bag body
Hardware
- One magnetic snap closure (14 mm to 18 mm works well)
Tools
- Tapestry needle for weaving ends
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
- Cardboard scrap (about 3 inches) for making tassels
Optional
- fabric lining and sewing supplies if desired
Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.
Key to this pattern, 6 short forms
Part 1: Bag Body (Worked Flat, Then Seamed)
The main body is one long rectangle that gets folded and seamed on the sides. Simple, right?
Foundation: Ch 36.
Round 1
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (35 sts)
Round 2
Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (35 sts)Rows 3 through 56: Repeat Row 2. (35 sts each row) You should have a rectangle approximately 10 inches wide and 14 inches tall.Fasten off and weave in your starting tail.
Folding and seaming:
Fold the rectangle in half with wrong sides together, bringing the short edges to meet. The fold becomes the bottom of your bag.
Using your tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch or mattress stitch the side seams closed. Work from the bottom fold up to the top edge on both sides.
Turn right side out. You now have a basic pouch shape.
Part 2: Envelope Flap
The triangular envelope flap attaches to the back of the bag and folds over the front. This is where the asymmetrical style comes in.
Foundation: Ch 36.
Round 1
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. (35 sts)
Round 2
Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (35 sts)Rows 3 through 6: Repeat Row 2. (35 sts) Now we begin the diagonal shaping. This creates that sharp envelope point.
Round 7
Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (33 sts)
Round 8
Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (33 sts)
Round 9
through 24: Repeat Rows 7 and 8, continuing to decrease 2 stitches every other row.
Your stitch counts will be: Row 9: 31 sts Row 11: 29 sts Row 13: 27 sts Row 15: 25 sts Row 17: 23 sts Row 19: 21 sts Row 21: 19 sts
Row 23: 17 sts
Round 25
Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (15 sts)
Round 26
Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (15 sts) Continue decreasing every other row:Row 27: 13 sts Row 29: 11 sts Row 31: 9 sts Row 33: 7 sts Row 35: 5 sts Row 37: 3 stsRow 38: Ch 1, turn. Sc3tog (insert hook in first st, pull up loop, insert in second st, pull up loop, insert in third st, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops). (1 st)Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Border (optional but recommended):
Join yarn at any corner of the flap. Sc evenly around all edges, working 3 sc in the point corner for a clean finish. Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off.
Part 3: Handmade Tassels
Those chunky tassels are what take this bag from nice to “where did you buy that?” territory. You will make 8 tassels total.
How to crochet tassel toppers: Each tassel has a little crocheted ball on top. Here is how to make them: Magic ring: Ch 2, work 6 sc in the second ch from hook. Pull tail to tighten into a ring. (6 sts)
Round 1
2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 2
Sc in each st around. (12 sts)Round 3: Sc2tog around. (6 sts) Do not fasten off yet.
Making the tassel fringe:
Cut 12 to 14 strands of yarn, each about 6 inches long. Fold them in half and pull the folded loop through the bottom opening of your crocheted ball. Thread the cut ends through the loop and pull snug.
Finishing the tassel:
Wrap a separate strand of yarn around the tassel about half an inch below the ball, creating that distinctive wrapped neck. Secure with a knot and hide the tail inside the tassel.
Trim the tassel ends evenly.
Repeat to make 8 tassels total.
Assembly, in order
Step 1Almost there. This is where everything comes together.
Step 2Attaching the flap:
Step 3Position the straight edge of the envelope flap along the inside back edge of the bag opening. Using whip stitch and matching yarn, sew the flap securely in place.
Step 4Installing the magnetic snap:
Step 5Mark the center of the flap point (inside) and the corresponding spot on the bag front. Follow the manufacturer instructions for your magnetic snap. Most require you to poke small holes, insert the prongs, and bend them flat.
Step 6If you have never installed a magnetic snap before, do not worry. YouTube has excellent tutorials, and it takes about 5 minutes once you understand the mechanism.
Step 7Attaching D-rings for the strap:
Step 8On each side of the bag opening, create a small yarn loop or tab:
Step 9Ch 8, sl st to form a ring. Sc 12 sts around the chain ring. Sl st to join and fasten off.
Step 10Sew one ring holder to each inside corner of the bag opening. Thread your D-rings through these loops, then clip your chain strap to the D-rings.
Step 11Attaching the tassels:
Step 12Space the 8 tassels evenly along the edge of the envelope flap where it meets the bag body. Use the yarn tails from each tassel topper to sew them in place, then weave in ends securely.
Check these before you start
- Keep tension even across all 56 rows of the body; a rectangle worked in plain single crochet will show any tight or loose rows once folded and seamed.
- Use a stitch marker at the start of every row on the flap, not just the body — the diagonal shaping relies on an accurate stitch count to keep the point centered.
- Work the tassel toppers' magic ring snugly; a loose ring at 6 stitches will show a gap before the increase round brings it to 12.
On one line
| Rounds | 11 |
|---|---|
| Parts | 3 |
| Level | Intermediate |
| Time | 4-6 hours |
| Hook | 5.0 mm |
| Yarn | Worsted |
Set-up
- Confirm you have the full 250 to 300 yards of worsted cotton before starting the body — running short mid-row on a 35-stitch rectangle means unraveling.
- Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of Row 1 on both the body and the flap so the edge count stays at 35 stitches through every repeat.
- Read through the flap's diagonal shaping rows before starting Row 3, since the decreases begin right after Row 6 and change the row from a straight repeat.
- Cut and set aside your cardboard scrap now — you will wrap fringe for all eight tassels in one sitting once the crocheted pieces are done.
Finishing
- Weave in all loose ends from the body, flap, and each of the eight tassel toppers with a tapestry needle before assembly.
- Wet block or steam block the body and flap pieces flat and let them dry fully so the 35-stitch rows sit even before seaming.
- Whip stitch the flap to the inside back edge of the bag opening, then install the magnetic snap at the marked center point on the flap and bag front.
Construction
The bag body is a single flat rectangle rather than a piece worked in the round, which is why it needs seaming on the sides after blocking — this keeps the stitch pattern simple across all 56 rows.
The envelope flap starts identically to the body, with six straight rows of 35 stitches, before diagonal decreases begin — this shared opening means both pieces block to the same width before the flap narrows to its point.
Time per section
| Bag Body | about 2 to 3 hours because the 56 rows of single crochet are simple but numerous |
|---|---|
| Envelope Flap | about 1 to 1.5 hours because the diagonal shaping rows need closer attention than a straight repeat |
| Tassels and Assembly | about 1 hour because eight tassel toppers plus whip stitching the flap and installing the snap take steady hand work |
Photographs of this one
Every one was taken by whoever published the pattern, in the order the source listed them.
Common questions
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.