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Crochet horse and unicorn amigurumi pattern for beginners

Horse & unicorn amigurumi, 18-round head, B-1 / 2.0mm hook. Beginner-friendly, two finishes from one body.

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Crochet horse and unicorn amigurumi pattern for beginners
Amigurumi · Fingering
Skill
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Yarn weight
Fingering
Hook
2.0 mm
Rounds
76

Intermediate

What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Fingering

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

76

Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.

This amigurumi builds a horse or a unicorn from one shared body plan: a spiral-worked Head, Body, two Arms, two Legs, Muzzle, and two Ears, with a Horn added for the unicorn and separate manes and tails for each version. Every piece starts in a Magic Ring and grows through standard increase rounds before settling into straight rounds, so the shaping logic repeats from part to part. Before starting, have fingering-weight cotton blend yarn in the listed colors, a US B-1 / 2.0 mm hook, 10mm or 12mm safety eyes, fiberfill, a stitch marker, and a long tapestry needle on hand.

Common mistakes and their fixes

Eyes placed without counting stitches between them
Count 6 stitches between the two safety eyes as instructed, and set them between Rounds 16 and 17 of the Head before the opening closes down.
Overstuffing before the eye tucks are sewn
Stuff the Head lightly and gradually as you go; a firmly packed Head resists the needle during eye sculpting and blunts the facial indent.

The materials list

Yarn

  1. YarnArt Jeans (50g / 160m) or equivalent fingering-weight cotton blend
  2. Horse: Main color #70 (body), #01 (muzzle, leg stripes), #40 (ears), #53 (hooves, lashes, brows, nose)
  3. Unicorn: Main color #03 (body, muzzle, ears), #83 (hooves and horn), #53 (lashes, brows, nose), #62 (eye whites), mane colors #74, #75, #05
  4. Eye whites (both): #62
  5. Mane yarn (horse): Pehora boucle yarn #173, plus 2 strands black

Hook

  1. US B-1 / 2.0 mm (adjust to your tension)

Safety eyes

  1. 10 mm (horse) or 12 mm (unicorn)

Stuffing

  1. Fiberfill / polyfill
  2. Stitch marker
  3. Long tapestry/yarn needle (for sewing parts and sculpting tucks)
  4. Scissors

Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.

Key to this pattern, 10 short forms

Head

Work in main color.

Stuff gradually as you go — lightly, not firmly.

After Round 17, insert safety eyes between Rounds 16–17 with 6 stitches visible between them.

Sl st to close. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

Inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3

(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)

Round 4

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, 1 sc. (24)

Round 5

(3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)

Round 6

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc. (36)

Round 7

(5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)

Round 8

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc. (48)

Round 9

(7 sc, inc) x 6. (54)

Rounds 10–17

Sc in each st around. (54) (8 rounds)

Round 18

(8 sc, inc) x 6. (60)

Rounds 19–22

Sc in each st around. (60) (4 rounds)

Round 23

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc. (54)

Round 24

(7 sc, dec) x 6. (48)

Round 25

(4 sc, dec) x 8. (40)

Round 26

(3 sc, dec) x 8. (32)

Round 27

(6 sc, dec) x 4. (28)

Round 28

(5 sc, dec) x 4. (24)

Body

Sl st to close. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

Inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3

(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)

Round 4

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, 1 sc. (24)

Round 5

(3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)

Round 6

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc. (36)

Round 7

(5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)

Round 8

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc. (48)

Round 9

(7 sc, inc) x 6. (54)

Rounds 10–14

Sc in each st around. (54) (5 rounds)

Round 15

(7 sc, dec) x 6. (48)

Rounds 16–18

Sc in each st around. (48) (3 rounds)

Round 19

(6 sc, dec) x 6. (42)

Rounds 20–24

Sc in each st around. (42) (5 rounds)

Round 25

(5 sc, dec) x 6. (36)

Round 26

Sc in each st around. (36)

Round 27

(4 sc, dec) x 6. (30)

Round 28

Sc in each st around. (30)

Round 29

(3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)

Round 30

Sc in each st around. (24)

Arms

Begin in hoof color (contrast color).

Unicorn only — switch to main color at this point (before Round 7).

Horse — switch to main color from Round 8 onward.

Work any alignment stitches needed so the color change lands centered on the piece.

Stuff the arm halfway.

Fold flat and sc through both walls: 6–7 sc through both walls to close. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

Inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3

(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)

Rounds 4–5

Sc in each st around. (18) (2 rounds)

Round 6

(1 sc, dec) x 6. (12)

Round 7

Horse version Work 12 sc in both loops using white yarn. (12)

Round 7

Unicorn version 12 sc. (12)

Rounds 8–16

Sc in each st around. (12) (9 rounds)

Legs

Begin in hoof color (contrast color). Horse and unicorn work identically through Round 8.

Horse version: switch to white yarn before Round 9.

Horse version: switch to main color after Round 11; work Round 12 in BLO only, then work Rounds 12–20 in both loops.

Horse version: work any alignment stitches so the color change is centered (approximately 1 sc); stuff the leg halfway; fold flat and sc through both walls with 7–8 sc to close; leave a long tail for sewing; cut yarn.

Horse version: return to Round 12 (the BLO round), join white yarn and work the edging border — Option A: 16 sc along the exposed front loops, or Option B: (2 ch, sl st) repeated to end of the exposed loops; fasten off and hide ends inside the piece.

Unicorn version: switch to main color before Round 9.

Unicorn version: work any alignment stitches so the color change is centered (approximately 1 sc); stuff the leg halfway; fold flat and sc through both walls with 7–8 sc to close; leave a long tail for sewing; cut yarn.

Unicorn version: return to Round 9 (the BLO round), join contrast color yarn from the back and work the edging border — Option A: 16 sc along exposed front loops, or Option B: (2 ch, sl st) repeated to end of the exposed loops; fasten off and hide ends inside the piece.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

Inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3

(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)

Round 4

(2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)

Rounds 5–7

Sc in each st around. (24) (3 rounds)

Round 8

(2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)

Round 9

Horse version (7 sc, dec) x 2. (16)

Rounds 10–11

Horse version Sc in each st around. (16) (2 rounds)

Rounds 12–20

Horse version Sc in each st around. (16) (9 rounds)

Round 9

Unicorn version (7 sc, dec) x 2 — work in BLO. (16)

Rounds 10–11

Unicorn version Sc in each st around. (16) (2 rounds)

Rounds 12–20

Unicorn version Sc in each st around. (16) (9 rounds)

Muzzle

Horse: work in color #01. Unicorn: work in color #03 (cream/light color).

Work alignment stitches to center the working yarn at the middle of the muzzle (approximately 3 sc).

Sl st to close. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

Round 1

Foundation chain of 6 ch. Working along the chain: 4 sc, then 3 sc in the last ch (corner). Along the opposite side of the chain: 4 sc, then 3 sc in the final ch (second corner). (14)

Round 2

4 sc, (inc) x 3, 4 sc, (inc) x 3. (20)

Round 3

4 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x 3, 4 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x 3. (26)

Rounds 4–5

Sc in each st around. (26) (2 rounds)

Ears

Work in main color.

Fold the ear flat and sc through both walls: 6 sc to close. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

(1 sc, inc) x 3. (9)

Round 3

Sc in each st around. (9)

Round 4

(2 sc, inc) x 3. (12)

Round 5

Sc in each st around. (12)

Round 6

(3 sc, inc) x 3. (15)

Rounds 7–8

Sc in each st around. (15) (2 rounds)

Round 9

(3 sc, dec) x 3. (12)

Horn — Unicorn Only

Work in color #83.

Sl st to close. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

Sc in each st around. (6)

Round 3

(1 sc, inc) x 3. (9)

Rounds 4–5

Sc in each st around. (9) (2 rounds)

Round 6

(2 sc, inc) x 3. (12)

Round 7

Sc in each st around. (12)

Mane — Unicorn

Foundation chain of 45 ch. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Make 15 chains total — 5 in each of the 3 mane colors (#74, #75, #05).

Mane — Horse

Cut 15 strands of boucle yarn, each 40 cm long.

Cut 2 additional strands in black, the same way as the unicorn chain method.

Tail — Horse

Cut 5 strands of textured yarn, each 20 cm long.

Tail — Unicorn

Foundation chain of 20 ch. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Make 6 strands total — 2 strands in each of the 3 colors.

Assembly, in order

Step 1Eye sculpting (tucks): Thread a long needle from the bottom of the Head, at the neck join line. Bring the needle up on one side of an eye, pass it under the eye, and bring it out on the other side. Pull the thread gently to create the facial indent. Knot and secure. Repeat for the second eye. For the second tuck pass: enter at the neck-head join, exit on the inner corner of each eye, pull tight and knot. This gives both eyes their soft sculpted look.
Step 2Muzzle: Sew the Muzzle onto the front of the Head. Before closing completely, tuck a small amount of fiberfill inside to give it a gently rounded shape. Embroider the eye whites, lashes, brows, and nose details on top.
Step 3Ears: Fold each Ear in half. Sew between Rounds 7–8 of the Head. Then add a second anchor stitch 2 rounds above the first for stability.
Step 4Horn (unicorn only): Position the Horn between the Ears and sew securely through the base.
Step 5Head to Body: Sew the Head onto the Body using the long yarn tail from the Head. Align the pieces and whipstitch around the full opening to join.
Step 6Arms: Sew each Arm between Rounds 28–29 of the Body, one on each side.
Step 7Legs: Sew each Leg between Rounds 10–11 of the Body, one on each side, positioned symmetrically.
Step 8Mane: Attach each strand or chain to the top of the Head and down the back of the neck.

Check these before you start

  • Work the Head to a firm-but-light stuffing density as instructed, adding fiberfill gradually round by round rather than packing it in at the end, so the fabric stays even for the eye-tuck sculpting later.
  • Insert safety eyes between Rounds 16 and 17 of the Head, spaced 6 stitches apart, before the opening closes down too far to reach through.
  • Keep tension tight enough on all pieces that stuffing does not peek through the stitches; gauge itself is not critical, but fabric density is.
  • This crochet horse & unicorn amigurumi pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
  • All pieces are worked in a continuous spiral (no joining, no turning chains), except where noted.
  • Gauge is not critical, but your fabric should be tight enough that stuffing does not show through.
  • Stitch counts appear at the end of each round in parentheses: (##)
  • Insert safety eyes between Rounds 16–17 of the Head (6 visible stitches apart) before the opening becomes too small.
  • Do not overstuff the Head — it needs to remain pliable for the eye sculpting/tuck technique.
  • The horse and unicorn share the same base construction; differences are noted within each relevant section.

On one line

Rounds76
Parts11
LevelIntermediate
Time4-6 hours
Hook2.0 mm
YarnFingering

Set-up

  • Confirm which version you are making — horse or unicorn — before winding bobbins, since color assignments differ for body, hooves, horn, and mane.
  • Set aside 10mm safety eyes for the horse and 12mm for the unicorn; sizes are not interchangeable between versions.
  • Place a stitch marker at the start of Round 1 on the Head before working past it — 18 rounds worked in a continuous spiral without a marker are easy to lose track of.

Finishing

  1. Complete the eye sculpting tucks in two passes as described — first under each eye, then through the inner corners — knotting and securing each pass to set the facial indent.
  2. Sew the Muzzle to the front of the Head, then attach Arms, Legs, Ears, and (for the unicorn) the Horn, checking placement against the sculpted eyes before the final stitches are set.

Construction

The Head, Body, and Arms all open with the same increase sequence — 6, 12, 18, 24, 30 — meaning each part is built on the identical rate of growth before its own straight rounds and shaping take over.

The Arms change from a contrast hoof color to the main body color mid-piece (Round 7 for the unicorn, Round 8 for the horse), so the color join sits inside the straight rounds rather than at a shaping round, keeping the color line clean.

Time per section

Headabout 1.5-2 hours because it runs 18 rounds and includes the safety-eye placement and eye-sculpting tucks
Body and Legsabout 1.5 hours because the Body runs 20 rounds and the pair of 12-round Legs repeat the same shaping twice
Arms, Ears, Muzzle, and version-specific piecesabout 1-1.5 hours because the color-change Arms, short Muzzle, and (for the unicorn) the 6-round Horn are small but require careful color and placement tracking

Photographs of this one

Every one was taken by whoever published the pattern, in the order the source listed them.

Crochet horse and unicorn amigurumi pattern for beginners — photo 2
Crochet horse and unicorn amigurumi pattern for beginners — photo 3

Common questions

Can one pattern really make both the horse and the unicorn?
Yes — the Head, Body, Arms, Legs, Muzzle, and Ears are shared construction, and the versions diverge only in color assignment, the Horn, and the separate mane and tail treatments. Choose colors and add-ons for the version you want before you start winding yarn.
Why are safety eyes inserted mid-Head instead of at the end?
The eyes go in between Rounds 16 and 17, while the opening is still wide enough to reach a hand through from inside. Waiting until the Head is fully closed and stuffed makes the posts impossible to seat correctly.
Does the hook size need to match exactly?
The pattern calls for a US B-1 / 2.0 mm hook, but gauge is not critical here — what matters is a fabric tight enough that the fiberfill does not show through. Adjust hook size up or down slightly if your stitches run loose or tight.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.