Intermediate
What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.
Amigurumi 61 Laid out for paper No account, no download
Crochet a plush bunny rabbit amigurumi from start to finish
Plush bunny amigurumi worked in spiral rounds; body alone runs 17 rounds on an E-4 (3.5mm) hook.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Time
- 4-6 hours
- Yarn weight
- Bulky
- Hook
- 12 mm
- Rounds
- 61
Bulky
What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.
61
Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.
This bunny rabbit amigurumi builds from six separate pieces — two legs, two arms, a tail, a body, two ears, and a head — each worked in continuous spiral rounds from bulky velvet or plush yarn on an E-4 (3.5 mm) hook. The legs begin from a flat oval foundation chain rather than a magic ring, while the body, arms, tail, ears, and head all grow from a standard magic ring through steady six-stitch increases. Before picking up the hook, have fiberfill, a stitch marker, screw-back eyes, a safety nose, and semi-cotton contrast yarn for the hand-stitched eye indentations ready on the table.
Common mistakes and their fixes
- Starting the legs with a magic ring
- Legs begin from a flat chain of 8, worked across both sides of the foundation chain to form an oval sole, not a closed ring. Work the increase and 3-sc placements exactly where the pattern puts them so the foot keeps its shape.
- Losing the round marker in the spiral
- No piece joins at the end of a round, so a dropped marker means a drifted round count. Move the marker up every round, especially around the leg's early decrease-and-close section.
- Stuffing the fastened-off leg section
- The leg's round that decreases to 6 stitches, closes with a slip stitch, and gets fastened off is marked 'no stuffing needed.' Add fiberfill only once you rejoin yarn and continue the main leg rounds.
The materials list
Yarn
- Bulky velvet/plush yarn (such as YarnArt Dolce or similar), main color — 2 skeins
- Yarn (contrast): Semi-cotton yarn for eye indentations, whites, eyelashes, and brows
- Sewing thread for head attachment
Safety eyes
- Black screw-back, 12 mm — 2
Nose
- Pink safety nose, 17 mm × 12 mm — 1
Hook
- E-4 (3.5 mm)
Tools
- Yarn needle for plush yarn
- Hand-sewing needle for finishing details
- Stitch marker
- Scissors
- Fiberfill / polyfill stuffing
- Clear craft glue (optional, for securing nose)
Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.
Key to this pattern, 8 short forms
Legs (make 2)
Round 1
Start with a foundation chain of 8 ch. Working into the second ch from hook: 1 inc, then sc in the next 5 ch, work 3 sc in the last ch. Continue along the opposite side of the foundation chain: 4 sc. Place SM. (16)
Round 2
(1 inc, 1 sc) × 3, 1 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) × 3, 3 sc. (22)
Round 3
(1 sc, 1 inc) × 4, 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) × 4, 3 sc. (30)
Rounds 4–5
Sc in each st around — 2 rounds. (30)
Round 6
1 sc, 5 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc. (23)
Round 7
1 sc, 3 dec, 16 sc. (20)
Round 8
1 sc, 2 dec, 15 sc. (18)Begin stuffing the leg gradually at this point.
Rounds 9–15
Sc in each st around — 7 rounds. (18)Work 4 sc, then fold the leg flat so both edges align. Working through both layers at once, work: 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec — placing the decreases at the side edges. (7) Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Weave end inside the leg. Make the second leg the same way.
Arms (make 2)
Round 1
MR, 6 sc. Pull ring closed. (6)
Round 2
6 inc. (12)
Round 3
(1 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (18)
Round 4
Sc in each st around. (18)
Round 5
2 sc, 3 dec, 10 sc. (15)
Round 6
3 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc. (14)
Rounds 7–12
Sc in each st around — 6 rounds. (14)Stuff the arm gradually as you work.Work 5 sc, then fold the arm flat so both edges align. Working through both layers at once, work: 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec — placing the decreases at the side edges. (5) Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Weave end inside the arm. Make the second arm the same way.
Tail
Round 1
MR, 6 sc. Pull ring closed. (6)
Round 2
6 inc. (12)
Round 3
6 dec. (6)Sl st to close. Fasten off and cut yarn. No stuffing needed.
Body
Round 1
MR, 6 sc. Pull ring closed. (6)
Round 2
6 inc. (12)
Round 3
(1 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (18)
Round 4
(2 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (24)
Round 5
(3 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (30)
Round 6
(4 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (36)
Round 7
(5 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (42)
Round 8
Sc in each st around. (42)Position your stitch marker at the back of the body. Attach both legs before working Rnd 9.
Round 9
3 sc, then work 7 sc joining the first leg (working across the inner folded edge of that leg), 14 sc across the body front, then work 7 sc joining the second leg (working across the inner folded edge of that leg), 11 sc. (42)
Round 10
3 sc, then work 7 sc joining the first leg (working across the flat folded row of that leg), 14 sc, then work 7 sc joining the second leg (working across the flat folded row of that leg), 11 sc. (42)
Rounds 11–13
Sc in each st around — 3 rounds. (42)Work 1 sc, then reposition your stitch marker. Begin stuffing the body gradually.
Round 14
3 sc, 7 sc (over first leg), 1 sc, (1 dec, 1 sc) × 4 (these 4 decreases shape the tummy) , 1 sc, 7 sc (over second leg), 11 sc. (38)
Round 15
6 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc. (36)
Round 16
(4 sc, 1 dec) × 6. (30)
Round 17
(3 sc, 1 dec) × 6. (24)
Rounds 18–20
Sc in each st around — 3 rounds. (24)
Round 21
3 sc, then work 5 sc joining the first arm (working across the flat folded edge), 7 sc across the body, then work 5 sc joining the second arm (working across the flat folded edge), 4 sc. (24)Stuff the body firmly. Sl st to close. Fasten off and cut yarn.
Ears (make 2)
Round 1
MR, 6 sc. Pull ring closed. (6)
Round 2
6 inc. (12)
Round 3
(1 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (18)
Round 4
Sc in each st around — 1 round. (18)
Round 5
(2 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (24)
Rounds 6–10
Sc in each st around — 5 rounds. (24)
Round 11
(2 sc, 1 dec) × 6. (18)
Rounds 12–14
Sc in each st around — 3 rounds. (18)Fold the ear flat so both edges align. Working through both layers, work 9 sc across. Then fold once more and work 4 sc through both layers — the 9th stitch lands at the fold point. Fasten off, cut yarn, and weave the tail to the inside.
Head
Round 1
MR, 6 sc. Pull ring closed. (6)
Round 2
6 inc. (12)
Round 3
(1 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (18)
Round 4
(2 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (24)
Round 5
(3 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (30)
Round 6
(4 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (36)
Round 7
(5 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (42)
Round 8
(6 sc, 1 inc) × 6. (48)
Rounds 9–11
Sc in each st around — 3 rounds. (48)
Round 12
13 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 25 sc. (45)
Round 13
12 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 23 sc. (42)
Round 14
Sc in each st around. (42)
Round 15
(5 sc, 1 dec) × 6. (36)
Round 16
(4 sc, 1 dec) × 6. (30)Insert safety eyes between Rnds 13 and 14, positioned above the first and last decrease points from Rnds 12–13, with approximately 6 stitches between them. Begin stuffing the head.
Round 17
(3 sc, 1 dec) × 6. (24)
Round 18
(2 sc, 1 dec) × 6. (18)
Round 19
(1 sc, 1 dec) × 6. (12)
Round 20
6 dec. (6)Continue stuffing fully as you close. Fasten off, cut yarn, and weave the tail into the head.
Assembly, in order
Step 1Sew the head to the body using sewing thread. Work three rows of stitches around the neck join for a secure, stable connection.
Step 2Attach the tail at the back of the body at leg level — no higher than body Rnd 9. Sew securely using the yarn tail.
Step 3Attach the ears above the brow line, positioning them approximately 6–7 stitches apart. Sew down through both folded layers for stability.
Step 4Embroider facial details using semi-cotton yarn: work the eye indentations as described below, then add eye whites, eyelashes, and brows with the appropriate thread colors.
Eye Indentation TechniqueEye Indentation Technique: Thread a semi-cotton yarn onto your hand-sewing needle. Insert the needle at the base of the head (near the first magic ring round) and exit at point 2 (first eye position). Pass the yarn across to point 3 (opposite anchor), then return the needle to point 1 (base). Pull gently to create indentation. Tie a knot to secure. Repeat this process with the following paths: 1 → 4 → 5 → 1 , 1 → 6 → 7 → 1 , and 1 → 8 → 9 → 1 , tying a knot after each pass. Using the same semi-cotton yarn, add the eye whites. Switch to black yarn for eyelashes and brows.
Step 6Attach the nose between the shaped muzzle rounds, gluing it in place with clear craft glue if desired.
Step 7Weave in all remaining ends.
Check these before you start
- Gauge is not critical for this project, but use the E-4 (3.5 mm) hook throughout — your fabric should be dense enough that no fiberfill shows through the stitches.
- Every part is worked in a continuous spiral, so move the stitch marker up at the start of each round. There is no join or chain to mark the round boundary for you.
- Note the leg's early decrease-and-fasten-off point, where the instructions call for no stuffing. Add fiberfill only once the pattern says so, to avoid overfilling that section.
- This pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
- The legs and arms are folded flat and closed with decreases worked across both layers — this technique shapes the limbs neatly and prepares them for seamless attachment to the body.
On one line
| Rounds | 61 |
|---|---|
| Parts | 6 |
| Level | Intermediate |
| Time | 4-6 hours |
| Hook | 12 mm |
| Yarn | Bulky |
Set-up
- Confirm two full skeins of bulky velvet or plush yarn on hand, since the body alone runs 17 rounds and six more pieces still need yarn.
- Read through the leg's first round before starting; it works a flat ch-8 oval base rather than a magic ring, and the stitch placement sets the foot shape.
- Keep a stitch marker ready for every piece — legs, arms, tail, body, ears, head are all worked in continuous spiral with no joining rounds to mark your place.
- Set the hand-sewing needle and semi-cotton contrast yarn aside separately from the plush-yarn needle; the eye indentation stitching happens after the head is otherwise complete.
Finishing
- Weave in and secure all loose ends from each piece — legs, arms, tail, body, ears, head — with a yarn needle sized for the plush yarn before assembly begins.
- Stuff the body and limbs firmly enough that the dense velvet fabric shows no fiberfill through the stitches, leaving the leg's fastened-off decrease section unstuffed as instructed.
- Attach the screw-back eyes and pink safety nose to the head, then work the eye indentation stitching with semi-cotton yarn and a hand-sewing needle, knotting each pass before sewing the head to the body with sewing thread.
Construction
The legs open with a flat ch-8 foundation worked on both sides — an increase and 3-sc at the far end, plain sc back along the opposite side — to shape an oval foot, rather than starting from a magic ring the way the arms and body do.
The arms and body both begin MR, 6 sc and increase by six stitches each round (6 to 12 to 18), a radial increase typical for domed amigurumi starts, before the body continues for 17 rounds total and the arms later taper down through a decrease round.
Tail, ears, and head all start the same way the arms and body do — MR, 6 sc, then 6 single-crochet increases — before each piece branches into its own shaping: the tail closes almost immediately, the ears taper with a single decrease round before a folded closure, and the head continues increasing all the way to 48 stitches before its multi-round decrease taper down to 6.
Time per section
| Legs (both) | about 1.5 hours total, because each leg runs 8 rounds plus an oval foundation start and a mid-pattern decrease closure that needs careful placement. |
|---|---|
| Arms (both) | about 1 hour total, because each arm's 7 rounds include a shaping decrease row to narrow toward the paw. |
| Body | about 1 to 1.5 hours, because 17 rounds of continuous increase and straight spiral make it the largest single piece. |
| Tail | about 15–20 minutes, since it is only 3 rounds worked down to a quick decrease closure. |
| Ears (both) | about 45 minutes total, because each ear runs 14 rounds before the fold-and-close finishing step. |
| Head | about 1 to 1.5 hours, since it is the most heavily shaped piece with 20 rounds including the muzzle decreases and eye placement. |
Photographs of this one
Every one was taken by whoever published the pattern, in the order the source listed them.
Common questions
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.