Intermediate
What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.
Baby Garments 42 Laid out for paper No account, no download
Five-tier baby dress pattern in rose and cream
Top-down crochet baby dress, 42 rounds, five tiers, eyelet rows, 4mm hook.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Time
- 4-6 hours
- Yarn weight
- DK
- Hook
- 4.0 mm
- Rounds
- 42
DK
What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.
42
Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.
This dress starts at the neckline and works down: a shaped yoke, a fitted bodice divided for armholes, then five skirt tiers that alternate rose pink and cream, each joined to a specific round of the tier above. Eyelet rounds mark the transition points, sleeves and a neckline edging finish the top, and an optional bow adds a last detail. Before the first stitch, have both colors of DK cotton wound, a 4.0mm hook, and at least four stitch markers on hand.
Common mistakes and their fixes
- Joining a tier to the wrong round
- Check the round number named in the instructions before you join a new color; attaching even one round off changes how the tiers stack and shows as uneven layering.
- Bodice comes out too tight
- Work one extra increase round in the yoke section, or go up one hook size from the 4.0mm called for, and recheck against the 18-stitch gauge before continuing.
- Scalloped tier edges curl after finishing
- Wet block the dress in lukewarm water for 15 minutes and lay it flat to dry with the tiers fanned out; cotton holds a curl until it has been properly wet blocked.
The materials list
Yarn
- Color A (Rose Pink): 200 grams of DK weight cotton or cotton blend yarn, approximately 400 yards
- Color B (Cream): 100 grams of DK weight cotton or cotton blend yarn, approximately 200 yards
Hook
- 4.0mm crochet hook (US G/6)
- Adjust if needed to match gauge
Notions
- Yarn needle for weaving ends
- Stitch markers (at least 4)
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
Gauge
- 18 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches in double crochet
Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.
Key to this pattern, 10 short forms
Part 1: The Yoke (Top Down Construction)
We begin at the neckline and work downward. This section creates the shaped shoulder area.
Using Color A (Rose Pink), ch 72. Join with sl st to first ch to form a ring, being careful not to twist.
Round 1
Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc in each ch around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. (72 dc)
Round 2
Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (144 dc) Place stitch markers as follows to divide for armholes: Marker 1: Stitch 1 (center back)Marker 2: Stitch 36 (left underarm)Marker 3: Stitch 72 (center front)Marker 4: Stitch 108 (right underarm)
Round 3
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (144 dc)
Round 4
Ch 3, *dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st*, rep from * around. Join. (168 dc)
Round 5
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (168 dc)
Round 6
Ch 3, *dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st*, rep from * around. Join. (192 dc) The yoke should now measure approximately 2.5 inches from the neckline.
Part 3: First Tier (Rose Pink)
Join Color A to any stitch of Round 16.
Round 1
Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next st*, rep from * around. Join. (216 dc)
Round 2
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (216 dc)
Round 3
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (216 dc)
Round 4
Eyelet Round Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st*, rep from * around. Join to 3rd ch of ch 4. (108 dc, 108 ch-1 spaces)
Round 5
(Scallop Edge): Sl st into ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in same space, *skip next dc, 5 dc in next ch-1 space (shell made), skip next dc, sc in next ch-1 space*, rep from * around. Join to first sc. (36 shells)Fasten off Color A.
Part 4: Second Tier (Cream)
This tier attaches to Round 3 of the first tier, creating that lovely layered effect.
Join Color B (Cream) to any stitch on Round 3 of the first tier (the round just before the eyelet round).
Round 1
Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, *3 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts*, rep from * around. Join. (288 dc)
Round 2
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (288 dc)
Round 3
Eyelet Round Ch 4, skip next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st*, rep from * around. Join to 3rd ch of ch 4. (144 dc, 144 ch-1 spaces)
Round 4
(Scallop Edge): Sl st into ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in same space, *skip next dc, 5 dc in next ch-1 space, skip next dc, sc in next ch-1 space*, rep from * around. Join to first sc. (48 shells)Fasten off Color B.
Part 5: Third Tier (Rose Pink)
Join Color A to any stitch on Round 2 of the second tier.
Round 1
Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, *3 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts*, rep from * around. Join. (360 dc)
Round 2
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (360 dc)
Round 3
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (360 dc)
Round 4
Eyelet Round Ch 4, skip next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st*, rep from * around. Join to 3rd ch of ch 4. (180 dc, 180 ch-1 spaces)
Round 5
(Scallop Edge): Sl st into ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in same space, *skip next dc, 5 dc in next ch-1 space, skip next dc, sc in next ch-1 space*, rep from * around. Join to first sc. (60 shells)Fasten off Color A.
Part 6: Fourth Tier (Cream)
Join Color B to any stitch on Round 3 of the third tier.
Round 1
Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, *3 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts*, rep from * around. Join. (432 dc)
Round 2
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (432 dc)
Round 3
Eyelet Round Ch 4, skip next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st*, rep from * around. Join to 3rd ch of ch 4. (216 dc, 216 ch-1 spaces)
Round 4
(Scallop Edge): Sl st into ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in same space, *skip next dc, 5 dc in next ch-1 space, skip next dc, sc in next ch-1 space*, rep from * around. Join to first sc. (72 shells)Fasten off Color B.
Part 7: Fifth Tier and Final Hem (Rose Pink)
This is the bottom tier. We add one extra round of scallops for a fuller hem.
Join Color A to any stitch on Round 2 of the fourth tier.
Round 1
Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, dc in next 5 sts, *3 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts*, rep from * around. Join. (504 dc)
Round 2
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (504 dc)
Round 3
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (504 dc)
Round 4
Eyelet Round Ch 4, skip next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st*, rep from * around. Join to 3rd ch of ch 4. (252 dc, 252 ch-1 spaces)
Round 5
(Scallop Edge): Sl st into ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in same space, *skip next dc, 5 dc in next ch-1 space, skip next dc, sc in next ch-1 space*, rep from * around. Join to first sc. (84 shells)Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Part 8: Sleeves (Make 2)
Join Color A to the center of the underarm chain.
Round 1
Ch 3, dc in each ch and each st around the armhole opening. Join. (approximately 36 dc)
Round 2
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (36 dc)
Round 3
(Scallop Edge): Ch 1, sc in same st, *skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st*, rep from * around. Join. (6 shells)Fasten off. Repeat for second sleeve.
Part 9: Neckline Edging
Join Color A to center back of neckline.
Round 1
Ch 1, sc evenly around entire neckline, working approximately 72 sc. Join. (72 sc)
Round 2
Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. Fasten off.
Part 10: Bow (Optional)
Using Color B (Cream), ch 50.
Round 1
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (49 sc) Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Tie into a bow shape and secure with yarn needle. Attach to center front of bodice just below the neckline.
Part 2: Divide for Armholes and Create Bodice
This is where we separate the front from the back and create openings for baby’s arms. Do not worry, it is easier than it sounds.
Round 7
Dividing Round Ch 3, dc in next 35 sts (back section). Ch 6, skip next 24 sts (first armhole). Dc in next 72 sts (front section). Ch 6, skip next 24 sts (second armhole). Dc in next 36 sts (remaining back). Join. (144 dc + 12 ch)
Round 8
Ch 3, dc in each dc and each ch around. Join. (156 dc)
Round 9
Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (156 dc)
Round 10
Ch 3, *dc in next 11 sts, dc2tog*, rep from * around. Join. (144 dc)
Round 11
through 14: Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (144 dc) The bodice should now measure approximately 5 inches from the shoulder. Time to add some texture.
Round 15
Eyelet Round Ch 3, dc in next st, *ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next 2 sts*, rep from * around, ending with ch 1, skip 1 st. Join. (96 dc, 48 ch-1 spaces)
Round 16
Ch 3, dc in each dc and each ch-1 space around. Join. (144 dc) Fasten off Color A. The bodice is complete.
Assembly, in order
Step 1Weave in all remaining yarn ends using your yarn needle. Work the tails into stitches of the same color so nothing shows through.
Step 2Block your dress by soaking it in lukewarm water for 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on a towel and shape the tiers so they fan out evenly. Let dry completely.
Step 3The cotton yarn will soften beautifully with washing and wear.
Check these before you start
- Each tier joins to a specific round of the one before it, not to the last round worked; the eyelet round of each tier is always followed by two more rounds before the next tier attaches one round early.
- Cotton and cotton-blend yarn has little stretch, so keep your gauge swatch honest at 18 stitches and 10 rows per 4 inches; a loose gauge on this yarn shows in the drape of the tiers.
- Color changes happen at a join, not mid-round: finish the last round of one tier completely, fasten off, and join the new color cleanly to any stitch of the correct round.
On one line
| Rounds | 42 |
|---|---|
| Parts | 10 |
| Level | Intermediate |
| Time | 4-6 hours |
| Hook | 4.0 mm |
| Yarn | DK |
Set-up
- Confirm you have 200 grams of Color A (Rose Pink) and 100 grams of Color B (Cream) wound and ready, since the tiers alternate colors in a fixed sequence.
- Set out at least four stitch markers before Round 2 of the yoke, where the pattern divides stitches for the armholes.
- Work a swatch and check it against 18 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches in double crochet before starting the yoke chain.
- Read through Round 16 of the bodice and the join line for the first tier before you begin, since each tier attaches to a named round rather than wherever the yarn happens to end.
Finishing
- Weave in every yarn end with a yarn needle, working rose pink tails into rose pink stitches and cream tails into cream stitches so nothing shows through the eyelet rounds.
- Soak the finished dress in lukewarm water for 15 minutes, then squeeze out excess water without wringing.
- Lay the dress flat on a towel, fan the five tiers out evenly by hand, and let it dry completely before handling; this is what settles any curl in the scalloped edges.
Construction
Round 2 of the yoke doubles the stitch count from 72 to 144 in a single round; this increase is what gives the bodice enough width to be divided for armholes in Part 2.
Each new tier joins to the round immediately before the previous tier's eyelet round rather than to the eyelet round itself, so the solid fabric of one tier overlaps the open chain-1 spaces of the one below it.
Time per section
| Yoke and bodice (Parts 1-2) | about 1 to 1.5 hours because of 13 combined rounds and the armhole division shaping |
|---|---|
| Tiered skirt (Parts 3-7) | about 2.5 to 3.5 hours because of 23 rounds across five tiers with eyelet rounds and color changes |
| Sleeves, neckline edging, and bow (Parts 8-10) | about 45 minutes to 1 hour because the round counts are small but there are three separate pieces to join |
Photographs of this one
Every one was taken by whoever published the pattern, in the order the source listed them.
Common questions
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.