Intermediate
What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.
Shawls & Wraps 6 Laid out for paper No account, no download
Ocean Blue Granny Stitch Pocket Shawl Crochet Pattern
Granny stitch shawl, 120 rows, two pockets, fringe trim. Worked flat with a 6.0 mm hook.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Time
- 5-7 hours
- Yarn weight
- Worsted
- Hook
- 6.0 mm
- Rounds
- 6
Worsted
What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.
6
Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.
This shawl starts as a single long panel worked back and forth in granny stitch, growing to about 70 inches before you fasten off. Two smaller panels, built the same way on a shorter foundation chain, become patch pockets that get positioned and sewn onto the finished piece. A border finishes the edges, and a fringe adds movement along the ends. Before casting on, have your full yarn amount wound and ready, since the main panel alone runs well over a hundred rows.
Skill level: Easy to Intermediate. If you can make a basic granny square, you have all the skills you need - the main body uses the same stitch pattern throughout, the pockets are smaller versions of the same technique, and seaming and fringe are straightforward finishing steps. This pattern is beginner friendly if you take it section by section.
Common mistakes and their fixes
- Losing the stitch count over 120 rows
- Count the clusters every ten rows or so against the 60-stitch total. Catching a dropped or added cluster early is far easier than unraveling rows later.
- Pockets attached unevenly
- Pin both pockets in place and measure from each panel edge before sewing. Sew one pocket fully before starting the second so you can match its position against the first.
- Edges turn out wavy
- Check tension on the turning chain and the first cluster of each row; uneven tension there is the usual cause. Block the finished panel to help the edges lie flat.
The materials list
- Yarn
Weight
- Medium weight (Category 4, also called worsted weight)
Quantity
- Approximately 900 to 1000 yards total
Suggested yarn
- Any soft acrylic or acrylic blend in your preferred color
Color shown
- Deep teal blue
- The yarn in the photo appears to be a smooth, plied acrylic with a slight sheen. Look for something that feels soft against your skin since this will drape around your neck and shoulders. Avoid anything scratchy or stiff.
- Hook
- This pattern works beautifully in any solid or variegated yarn - the open stitch pattern lets the yarn do the talking.
Size
- 6.0 mm (US J/10)
- You may need to adjust your hook size to match gauge. More on that below.
- Notions
- Yarn needle for weaving ends and seaming
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Stitch markers (optional but helpful)
- Gauge
- 14 stitches and 7 rows = 4 inches in granny stitch pattern
- To check your gauge, work the first few rows of the main panel. Measure your width. If your fabric is too tight, go up a hook size. If it is too loose, go down a hook size.
- Gauge matters for this project because it affects the final drape and size. A too-tight fabric will feel stiff. A too-loose fabric may stretch out of shape.
Finished Measurements
- Length (without fringe): Approximately 70 inches
- Width: Approximately 18 inches
- Fringe length: Approximately 6 inches
- Pocket dimensions: Approximately 7 inches wide by 8 inches tall
Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.
Key to this pattern, 10 short forms
Foundation Row
The body is one long rectangular panel worked in granny stitch rows.
Ch 62.
Round 1
Dc in 4th ch from hook (the skipped chains count as your first dc). Dc in next ch. *Sk 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch.* Repeat from * to * across until 3 ch remain. Sk 2 ch, 3 dc in last ch. Turn. (60 sts)
Round 2
Ch 3 (counts as first dc). 2 dc in same st. *Sk 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-sp or gap between clusters.* Repeat from * to * across. End with 3 dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (60 sts)
Rows 3 through 120: Repeat Row 2. Your panel should measure approximately 70 inches long when complete. If you want a longer or shorter shawl, add or subtract rows here. Each row adds roughly half an inch to your length.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends.
Border for Main Body
A simple border cleans up the edges and gives the shawl a finished look.
Round 1
Join yarn at any corner with a sl st. Ch 1. Work sc evenly around the entire rectangle. Work 3 sc in each corner to help the fabric lie flat. Join with sl st to first sc.
Round 2
Ch 1. Sc in each st around, working 3 sc in each corner st. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
This border is optional but recommended. It stabilizes the edges and creates a neat frame for the fringe.
Foundation Row (Pockets)
The pockets use the same granny stitch pattern in a smaller rectangle.
Ch 26.
Round 1
Dc in 4th ch from hook. Dc in next ch. *Sk 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch.* Repeat from * to * across until 3 ch remain. Sk 2 ch, 3 dc in last ch. Turn. (24 sts)
Round 2
Ch 3. 2 dc in same st. *Sk 3 dc, 3 dc in next gap.* Repeat from * to * across. End with 3 dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (24 sts)Rows 3 through 14: Repeat Row 2.
Border
Work 1 round of sc evenly around all four sides of the pocket square. Work 3 sc in each corner. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
Your pocket should measure approximately 7 inches wide and 8 inches tall. Make a second pocket identical to the first.
Positioning the pockets
Now we put everything together. This is easier than it looks.
1. Lay your main shawl body flat on a table or bed.
2. Find the center of each short end.
3. Position one pocket about 2 inches up from the bottom edge, centered horizontally.
4. Pin in place if desired.
Attaching the pockets
Using your yarn needle and matching yarn, whip stitch the pocket to the shawl body along the bottom and two sides. Leave the top edge open so you can actually use the pocket.
Whip stitch how-to:
Thread your needle with about 24 inches of yarn. Working from the wrong side, insert needle through one edge stitch of the pocket and the corresponding stitch on the shawl body. Pull through. Insert needle through the next stitch on each piece. Continue along the entire edge, keeping your stitches even and snug but not tight.
Repeat for the second pocket on the opposite end of the shawl.
Cutting your fringe
The fringe adds movement, length, and a beautiful vintage feel.
Cut strands of yarn approximately 14 inches long. You will need about 80 to 100 strands for each end, depending on how full you want your fringe.
Attaching fringe
1. Take 2 strands and fold them in half.
2. Insert your crochet hook through the edge stitch from front to back.
3. Grab the folded loop with your hook and pull it through the edge, creating a small loop on the front side.
4. Pull the loose ends through this loop.
5. Tug firmly to tighten the knot.
6. Repeat across the entire bottom edge, spacing fringe bundles about half an inch apart.
7. Repeat on the opposite end of the shawl.
Trimming
Once all fringe is attached, lay the shawl flat and trim the ends so they are even. A rotary cutter and mat work great for this, but sharp scissors work fine too.
Check these before you start
- Adjust hook size before you start if your swatch runs tight or loose against the stated gauge; a size change early saves reworking the 120-row panel later.
- Keep tension even across all 120 rows of the main panel. A tight row partway through will show as a narrow band once the panel is laid flat for the border.
- Count stitches periodically while repeating Row 2 on the main panel. Losing track over that many repeats is easy, and a dropped cluster will shift the gap spacing for every row above it.
- The main body is worked flat in rows, turning at the end of each row.
- Chain 3 at the beginning of a row counts as your first double crochet unless otherwise noted.
- Work all clusters into chain spaces, not into individual stitches. This is key to getting the granny stitch look right.
- The pockets are worked separately and sewn on at the end.
- Fringe is added last along both short ends of the shawl.
- Do not cut your yarn between sections if you can avoid it. This reduces ends to weave in later.
On one line
| Rounds | 6 |
|---|---|
| Parts | 9 |
| Level | Intermediate |
| Time | 5-7 hours |
| Hook | 6.0 mm |
| Yarn | Worsted |
Set-up
- Wind enough yarn to cover 900 to 1000 yards total before starting the main panel; running out mid-row on a 120-row piece means an awkward join.
- Work a swatch through the first few rows of the main panel and measure width against the 14 stitches to 4 inches gauge before committing to the full 62-chain foundation.
- Set aside stitch markers for the pocket panels; positioning two pockets evenly on a 70-inch panel is easier to measure with markers in place than by eye.
- Read the pocket positioning and attaching sections before you start the pocket panels, since both are built from the same granny stitch rows as the main piece and placement decisions affect how you finish each one.
Finishing
- Weave in all ends from the main panel and both pocket panels before attaching anything, so loose tails do not get caught under a seam.
- Position and pin both pockets to the main panel, checking placement against the panel's length before sewing them in place.
- Cut and attach fringe along the ends, then trim the fringe even and work the border round before a final light block to set the granny stitch pattern flat.
- Weave in all remaining ends using your yarn needle. Work the tail through several stitches on the wrong side, then double back in a different direction. This locks the end in place so it won't work loose with wear and washing.
- Wet blocking opens up the granny stitch pattern and evens out your stitches. Soak your finished shawl in cool water for 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on a towel or blocking mat. Smooth into shape. Pin if needed.
Construction
The main panel is worked flat rather than in rounds because granny stitch here builds length, not a joined square; each row offsets its clusters into the gaps left by the row before, which is what keeps the fabric from pulling to one side over 120 rows.
The pocket panels use the identical stitch pattern as the main panel but on a much shorter 26-chain foundation worked for only 14 rows, so the pockets read as a visual match to the body of the shawl rather than a separate texture.
Time per section
| Main panel | about 3 to 4 hours, because the granny stitch repeat runs across 120 rows to reach the 70-inch length |
|---|---|
| Pocket panels | about 45 minutes each, because each is only 14 rows on a 26-stitch foundation |
| Border, fringe, and attaching pockets | about 1 to 1.5 hours, because positioning, sewing, and trimming fringe take more care than they take length |
Common questions
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.