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Amigurumi 39 Laid out for paper No account, no download

Plush mini dragon amigurumi pattern for beginners

A plush mini dragon: 12-round head, 10-round body, 9-round tail, 3.0 mm hook. Beginner-friendly amigurumi.

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Plush mini dragon amigurumi pattern for beginners
Amigurumi · Super Bulky
Skill
Beginner
Time
3-5 hours
Yarn weight
Super Bulky
Hook
3.0 mm
Rounds
39

Beginner

What the pattern's own author called it. Nothing here is graded again.

Super Bulky

What the sample was worked in. Any weight works; the size moves with it.

39

Each one is typed out whole and gets its own line.

This mini dragon takes shape from separate legs and arms that join into a continuous 10-round body, topped with a 12-round head, a separately worked 9-round tail stitched on afterward, and a row of dorsal spines running center-back. Every piece works in continuous spiral rounds off a magic ring, so no slip stitching or chaining up is needed between rounds. The finished dragon stands about 5.5–6 inches tall. Before starting, have bulky plush yarn in your favorite green (or any main color) and a small amount of yellow for the crest and belly stripes, a 3.0 mm hook, a pair of 8-10 mm safety eyes, fiberfill, and a stitch marker ready on the table.

Common mistakes and their fixes

Losing track of the round start
Move the stitch marker to the first stitch of every new round as soon as it is made; because the pattern never joins or chains up, this is the only way to spot a missed increase.
Folding the arm off-center before closing
Line up the arm's opening evenly on both sides before single crocheting through both layers, so the final 3-stitch seam sits flat rather than twisting the tube.
Stuffing showing through loose stitches
If fiberfill is visible between stitches on the body or head, go down a hook size rather than stuffing more tightly, since the pattern notes gauge is flexible but fabric density is not.

The materials list

  1. Yarn (Main Color): Bulky plush or velour yarn, approx. 100 g / 120 m — any Super Bulky chenille-style yarn works well (e.g., Yarn Art Dolce Baby or Himalaya Dolphin Baby equivalent)
  2. Yarn (Contrast Color): Small amount of yellow plush yarn in the same weight — used for crest and belly stripes

Hook

  1. D-3 / 3.0 mm (adjust up or down to match your tension)

Safety eyes

  1. 8–10 mm, 1 pair

Stuffing

  1. Polyfill fiberfill
  2. Stitch marker
  3. Tapestry needle
  4. Scissors

Listed by the pattern's own author, in their words.

Key to this pattern, 9 short forms

Arms — Make 2

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2-6

Sc in each st around. (6)Fold the arm flat so the opening lines up. Working through both layers simultaneously, sc across: 3 sc. (3) Do not stuff. Set aside — arms will be crocheted into the body.

Legs — Make 2

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

*1 sc, inc* repeat 3 times. (9)

Round 3

Sc in each st around. (9)

Round 4

Sc in each st around. (9)

Round 5

Sc in each st around. (9)

Round 6

Sc in each st around. (9)For the first leg: fasten off, leaving a short tail. For the second leg: do not fasten off. Continue directly to Body.

Body

Worked continuously from the second leg, joining both legs together.

Joining Rnd: Ch 3, sc 9 around the first leg, sc 3 along the chain, sc 9 around the second leg, sc 3 along the opposite side of the chain. (24)

Place your stitch marker here — this is the beginning of the body rounds.

Round 1

Sc in each st around. (24)

Round 2

Sc in each st around. (24)

Round 3

Sc in each st around. (24)

Round 4

Sc in each st around. (24)

Round 5

*2 sc, dec* repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 6

Sc in each st around. (18)

Round 7

Sc in each st around. (18)

Round 8

*1 sc, dec* repeat 6 times. (12)Stuff the body firmly now, before continuing.

Round 9

Arm Attachment Round: Place one arm flat against the side of the body. Working through the arm and the body stitch at the same time, sc 3 to join the first arm. Sc 3–4 across the front of the body. Place the second arm on the opposite side and sc 3 to join it. Sc remaining sts to complete the round. (12)

Round 10

Sc in each st around. (12)

Head

Worked continuously from the body — do not fasten off.

Round 11

Inc in each st around. (24)

Round 12

*3 sc, inc* repeat 6 times. (30)

Round 13

Sc in each st around. (30)

Round 14

Sc in each st around. (30)

Round 15

Sc in each st around. (30)

Round 16

*3 sc, dec* repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 17

Sc in each st around. (24)

Round 18

Sc in each st around. (24)Insert safety eyes now, between Rnds 15 and 17. Press fingertip indentations into the face to find the most flattering placement before setting them permanently.

Round 19

*2 sc, dec* repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 20

Sc in each st around. (18)Stuff the head firmly.

Round 21

*1 sc, dec* repeat 6 times. (12)Leave the opening open at this stage — complete any muzzle shaping or tightening stitches before closing.

Round 22

Dec 6 times. (6)Fasten off. Close the remaining opening and weave in the end.

Tail

Round 1

6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2

*1 sc, inc* repeat 3 times. (9)

Round 3

Sc in each st around. (9)

Round 4

*2 sc, inc* repeat 3 times. (12)

Round 5

Sc in each st around. (12)

Round 6

*3 sc, inc* repeat 3 times. (15)

Round 7

Sc in each st around. (15)

Round 8

*4 sc, inc* repeat 3 times. (18)

Round 9

Sc in each st around. (18)Stuff lightly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Crest / Dorsal Spines

Worked in the contrasting color (yellow) directly onto the assembled toy, beginning at the base of the tail and running up the back to the center of the head.

Join contrasting yarn at the base of the tail.

Spine Unit: Ch 1, [work 3 unfinished dc into the next st, draw yarn through all loops on hook to complete the bobble, ch 1, sc into the next st, sl st into the next st].

Repeat the spine unit continuously along the back, from the tail base to the center of the head.

Do not fasten off the contrasting yarn after completing the crest. Use the same yarn to embroider 3 evenly spaced horizontal stripes across the belly.

Assembly, in order

Step 1Sew the tail to the center back of the lower body using the long yarn tail and a tapestry needle. Whipstitch around the full opening for a secure join.
Step 2Confirm arms are fully crocheted in at Rnd 9 of the body and lie flat against each side.
Step 3Confirm safety eyes are set securely between Rnds 15 and 17 of the head.
Step 4Work the crest from the tail base to the center of the head, following the spine unit as described above.
Step 5Embroider belly stripes with the remaining contrasting yarn before fastening off.
Step 6Weave in all ends.

Check these before you start

  • Every piece is worked in continuous spiral rounds — do not slip stitch to join and do not chain up between rounds, or the stitch count will shift.
  • Move the stitch marker up after the first stitch of each new round; with no join point visible, it is the only reliable way to track where a round starts.
  • Fabric tension matters more than exact gauge here — stuffing should never show through the stitches, so tighten up a hook size if the swatch looks loose.
  • all dec rounds in the head and body, work an invisible decrease: insert the hook under the front loop of the first stitch and the front loop of the second stitch, then complete the sc as normal — this keeps the fabric smooth and avoids the small V-dip that regular decreases leave behind.

On one line

Rounds39
Parts6
LevelBeginner
Time3-5 hours
Hook3.0 mm
YarnSuper Bulky

Set-up

  • Confirm the main-color yarn will stretch across arms, legs, body, head, and tail before winding a separate small ball of yellow for the crest and belly stripes.
  • Set a stitch marker aside specifically for round tracking — every part is worked in continuous spiral with no join, so a dropped round is easy to lose.
  • Read through the Body's joining round once before starting the legs, since both legs are worked first and then joined with a chain-3 gusset in one continuous pass.
  • Test a small swatch with the 3.0 mm hook and check that no fiberfill shows between stitches; go down a hook size if gaps appear.

Finishing

  1. Weave in all loose ends from the arms, legs, tail, and crest pieces before assembly, since several are worked separately and set aside until the body is complete.
  2. Stuff the body and head firmly through the open rounds before closing, keeping the arms unstuffed since they are crocheted flat and joined directly into the body.
  3. Whipstitch the tail to the center back of the lower body around its full opening, then attach the crest along the spine and embroider the belly stripes last.

Construction

The Body's joining round works a chain-3 between the two finished legs, then single crochets 9 stitches around each leg plus 3 stitches along each side of the chain, producing a continuous 24-stitch base without any separate seaming.

The final row of each arm is worked flat rather than in the round: the tube is folded so the opening lines up, and single crochet passes through both layers together, which flattens the tip so it can be crocheted directly into the body at Rnd 9.

Time per section

Arms and legsabout 30-45 minutes, because both pairs are small pieces of only a few rounds each
Bodyabout 45-60 minutes, because of the two-leg joining round plus 10 body rounds and working the arms in at Rnd 9
Head, tail, and crestabout 60-90 minutes, because the head alone runs 12 rounds with safety eyes set between Rnds 15 and 17, plus separate tail and spine pieces to attach

Photographs of this one

Every one was taken by whoever published the pattern, in the order the source listed them.

Plush mini dragon amigurumi pattern for beginners — photo 2
Plush mini dragon amigurumi pattern for beginners — photo 3

Common questions

Why are the arms left unstuffed?
The arms are worked flat at the final row, folded and single crocheted through both layers, then joined straight into the body at Rnd 9. Without a rounded cavity, there is nothing to stuff — they are meant to lie flat against the body.
Where exactly do the safety eyes go?
Set them securely between Rnds 15 and 17 of the head, before the head is closed and stuffed. Check both sides for symmetry before locking the washers in place.
Do the legs and body need to be seamed together?
No separate seaming is needed. The Body's joining round works a chain-3 gusset and single crochets directly around both leg openings, building a continuous 24-stitch base in one pass.
Can I use a different yarn weight for this mini dragon pattern?
Yes, but your finished size will change. The pattern is designed for a Super Bulky plush or chenille yarn around 100 g / 120 m. If you substitute a lighter weight yarn, your dragon will come out smaller and you will need to go down a hook size to keep your tension tight enough for amigurumi. The character and shape stay the same regardless of yarn weight.
How do I keep the legs even when joining them to the body?
After working the 3 foundation chains, count carefully as you sc around the first leg — all 9 stitches — then sc 3 along the chain before moving to the second leg. Place a stitch marker at the very first stitch of the joining round so you always know where your rounds begin.

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.